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1008 




THE 

American Garment Cutter 

FOR 

WOMEN'S GARMENTS 



SECOND EDITION 



^A complete, practical, up-to-date 
treatise on the cutting of 

WOMEN'S GARMENTS 

according to the latest and most 
approved method 






AMERICAN FASHION COMPANY 

PUBLISHERS 
NEW YORK - LONDON - PARIS - BERLIN - VIENNA 



ir , "- n i.A 



\1 



INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT. 1913 



Entered according to the act of Congress in the year 1913 
by 

AMERICAN FASHION COMPANY 

In the oHice of the Librarian at Washington. D. C. 



All Rights reserved Reproduction Interdite 

Vervielfaeltigung Untersagt 



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PrFfarp to lltp ^Fronli iEfitttnn 



^"tHE First Edition of the American Garment Cutter met with un- 
/ 1 1 precedented success, in reference both to its acceptance by the 
^■^ Ladies' Tailoring Trade as a work on cutting par excellence 
and the demand for the book itself. 

The call for this auxiliary instructor in the drafting and cutting 
of ladies tailor-made apparel by a practical, yet simple system, has 
completely exhausted the First Edition; and in devoting ourselves to 
the Second Edition we have carefully considered the up-to-date needs 
of the trade in its preparation. 

Therefore, while fully covering the matter of detailed consider- 
ation of all standard garments, the taking of the measures, the cor- 
rect drafting of the patterns, tables of proportions, and other features 
so highly commended in the first edition, we have recognized the im- 
perative need of "modernizing," so to say the treatment of the sub- 
ject, and while not getting away from the fundamental principles as 
set forth in the earlier issue, the present work has been revised and 
supplemented with much new material and many illustrations, mak- 
ing it in every way a worthy successor to the First Edition. 

in the satisfaction that this work will duplicate the successof the 
American Garment Cutter, First Edition, we present it for your 
practical use and consideration. 

The Author, 

GUSTAV ENGELMANN 



DEDICATION 



TO the thousands of Tailors throughout 
the World whose lives are unselfishly 
consecrated to the production of perfect fitting 
garments for women, this work is dedicated in 
the most cordial wishes of 

The (Author. 



Measurements 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS 

WOMEN 



Sizes 


32 


34 


36 


38 


r — 

40 


42 


44 


46 


48 


50 


Bust 


32 


34 


36 


38 


40 


42 


44 


46 


48 


50 


Waist 


23/. 


24 


25 


26 


27/ 


29 


31 


33/ 


36 


39 


Hip 


2,1 


39 


41 


43 


45 


47 


49 


51 


54 


57 


Neck 


13H 


14% 


14H 


15/ 


15>34 


16/ 


16.34 


17/ 


17M 


18/ 


Across Chest 


uyi 


15 


15/. 


16 
'/.-1 7/ 


16/ 
'/-17/ 


17 


17/ 


18 


18/ 


19 


Length of Waist Front 


7y4-\7'A 


754-17/. 


7/-17/ 


7^-17 


7.)4-16.)4 


7^-16/ 


? -16/ 


8 -16 


1-2 
Shoulder Height Front 


m- 6.)4 


) - 7 


9%- 7J4 


)/- 7J^ 


).K- 7.H 


10 -8 


I0/-8/ 


10/-8/ 


10.}4-83/ 


11 -9 


1-2 

Shoulder Height Back 


^ - 5-54. 


3Va- 5/8 


W,-b 


!-/8- (>%' 


?/- 6/ 


%yi- b-Yi 


?-J4- 6/ 


8/8- 65.^ 


) - 6J4 


)V8- 6% 


Neck Height and to 
Waist 


7 -\5H 


7Yi-\iV2 


7^4-15/ 


'■/s-lS/a 


7 /.-1 5 54 


7H-\SVa 


7M-iS7/8 


7/8-16 


S -16/ 


8/8-16H 


Across Back 


13 


13/. 


14 


14/ 


15 


15/ 


16 


16/ 


17 


17/ 


Under Arm 


SVa 


8/. 


8/. 


8/ 


8/ 


8 


7M 


7/ 


7/ 


7 


Shoulder 


S'A 


5-^ 


SH 


S/g 


6 


6/ 


6/ 


6/8 


6/ 


6si 


Inside Sleeve 


18 


18/ 


18/ 


18/ 


18/ 


18/ 


18/ 


18/ 


18/ 


18/ 



Diagram l 



10 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



PROPORTIONAL WIDTHS 

From 4Feet 4in.to 6Feet. s-e 



6 FEET 



4FT.4IN. 




Diagram 2 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



11 



«"" PROPORTIONAL LENGTHS 




12 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING MEASURES. 

In taking a customer's measure it is absolutely essential that she be treated in such a 
manner that she feel perfectly at ease in every way, hence will assume her natural attitude. 
Act quickly but quietly; don't get flustered yourself; converse naturally with her, to take her 
mind from the fact that she is being measured, otherwise she will inevitably and uncon- 
sciously "pose," which will result in a misfit, meaning trouble, alterations, loss of prestige, 
etc. » 

Be very careful in measuring to place the tape close to the body, neither too tight nor 
too loose, and see to it that it is not crooked. The success of the garment depends greatly 
on the balance, which the measurement alone can ascertain. It is therefore imperative that 
the body of your customer be in its natural pose when the measure is taken. We must again 
impress upon you the necessity of so arranging matters that you will keep her body in its 
proper pose. It is a very common occurence that a person whose natural attitude is some- 
what stfKjping will erect herself during the operation of measuring, which should be avoid- 
ed. Take special notice of the foregoing instruction. 

TAKING THE MEASURE. -;*»»;««»,- 

Diagram 4, N. 1 ; Diagram 4, No. 2. 

FIR.ST — Mark shoulder seam with two pins, one at 8, the other at 9. This is very im- 
portant, and great care should be taken not to get this particular seam too far front or back. 

SECOND — Place tape high up under arm as line 1 shows, and mark with pins for 
shoulder height measure at 22 and 15 on front and 24-25 on back, directly under shoulder 
pins previously placed. 

BUST MEASURE — Move tape down to fullest part of bust (i)iiint 2) and take 
measure. 

W.MST MEASURE — Draw tape tight arcnind waist and lake measure. 

illl' ME.ASURE — Move tape down four (4) inches below waist to point 4, and meas- 
ure fairly tight. Four inches lower is a second hip measure, puint 5. 

NECK ME.ASURE — Measure around neck with ease, not too tight nor yet too loose. 

.\CR()SS CHEST— 21-20. From armscye to armscye across chest. 

NECK FRONT TO WAIST — 6-2-3. From lowest point of neck measure to fullest part 
of bust to wraist front. 

SHOULDER HEIGHT FRONT— 8-22 and 9.15. Measure from pins on shoulder 1o 
pins ])laced on bust. 

SFK )ULDER HEIGHT BACK— 8-24 and 9-25. Measure from pins on shoulder to pins 
placed on back. 

LENGTH BACK TO WAIST— 6-1-3. From collarbone to center of back to waist. 

.'\CROSS BACK — 23-n. From armscye to armscye across back. 

UNDER ARM — Place the end of tape a little back of directly under the arm ; then take 
the measure to bottom of belt. Be very careful to get this measure long enough. 

OUTSIDE SLEEVE— 7-11-12-13. From center of back to armscye, elbow and wrist. 

SKIRT MEASURE. , 

Take waist measure same as for jacket, and for hip measure, 6 inches below waist. 
LENGTH FRONT— 3-16 from waistband to floor. 
LENGTH SIDE— 18-17 from waistband to floor. 
LENGTH BACK— 3-19 from waistband to floor. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



13 




Diagram 4 No. 1 



Diagram 4 No. 2 



14 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



JACKET LESSON I. 

Diagram 5 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm Sjj inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back :, 14 inches 

Hip 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9>^ — 7>^ inches 

Across Chest 15' j inches Shoulder Heights Back 8^ — 6 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist-. --7,'/4 — 15jl' inches 

Length rrnnt of Waist "'4 — 17!.- inches Length of Shoulder 5.>4 indies 

LMSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line A B. 

From A to C is 7^ inches, neck height in back. 

From A to E is 15^ inches, length of waist in Ijack. 

E to F is 4 inches, the first hip. 

F to B is 4 inches, the second hip. 

Square over points C E F and B on line A B. 

From C to D is 3/ of bust measure plus 1 inch. In this case 20 inches. 

This 1 inch we allowed is lost in cutting out the pattern. 

D to O is ;^ inch allowed for breathing. 

D to G is jS4 of bust measure, in this case 5 inches. 

G to H is y^ of bust measure plus lli inches, in this case 4 inches. 

C to Y is 254 inches. 

This point changes }i, more or less according to larger or smaller sizes. 

C to I is 7 inches, yi of back measure. 

Square point D and H up and down. 

Square up points G I Y on line C D. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



15 






D 



A 



-^ 



-4^ 



^ 



^ 



^DO 



-^^E 



-^DP 



4)6 



Diagram 5 



16 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



JACKET LESSON II. 

Diagram 6 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm 8j4 inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hips 41 inches Shoulder Heights Front. . . .gYz — 7>^ inches 

Across Chest 15 ,'4 inches Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8^4 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist. .734 — 15^ inches 

Length Front of Waist. . . .73.4 — 17>^ inches Length of Shoulder 5% inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

C to P is 6 inches, the second shoulder height back. 

Y to O is 834 inches, the first shoulder heiglit back. 

Square over A and P on line A B. 

In squaring P over point R is found crossing line I. 

R to S is >4 inch. 

Draft neck A O and draw back shoulder O S, 5^ inches. 

At front, H to 3 is 7^4 inches, second shoulder height front. Square point 3. 

G to X is 9y2 inches, first shoulder height from. Square point X over IJ-j inches to point 31. 

X to 1 is 2 inches. 

Square over point 1 to 27. 

Draft neck curve from 31 to 27. . 

Draw front shoulder from 31 to 3, 5)4 inches, the same as back shoulder O. S. 

Z to 2 is 7-54 inches, ^ of chest measure. 

Draft armscye from S through H, 2 to 3. 

In drafting armscye be very careful not to go inside of line I. R. 

Also do not bring it below the f)ust line. 

It is very important to follow the draft of armscye very carefully and get the shape as near as 

possible as diagram shows, as nothing can be added to an armscye that is too large while 

a small armscye can easily be made larger. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



I7 



31®^^)X 




-^^E 



-i^T 



4b 



Diagram 6 



18 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN . 

TIGHT BACK LOOSE FRONT. 

Diagram 7 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm 8j/ inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hip 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9>^ — 7>1 inches 

Across Chest 15j/ inches Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8yl inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist.. ..7j4 — 15/4 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7^4 — 17j4 inches Length of Shoulder.... 5-)4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

At waist line E to J is I'/j inches in all cases. 

J to K is ly4 inches. 

This measure varies J4 inch according to larger or smaller size where the back is tight fitting 

with two gores. 
Waist measure 25 inches, 34 of same is 6^4 inches, which must be divided into Jj back and 

two equal gores. 
K to L is 1 inch. 
L to 7 is 7 inches. As we only need 5 inches in this case, the otiier 2'4 inches are taken out 

in two darts oi 1% inches each. The remaining 5 inches are to be divided equally into 

two gores of 2j4 inches each. 
L to 4, 2y2 inches; 4 to 5, l^s inches; 5 to 6, 2y2 inches; 6 to 7, lH inches. 
On hip line measure from F to V 1'4 inches. 
Draw center back from A through J to \'. 
Take the center of L K, square down where line crosses on hip, measure y inch to 15, no 

allowances to be made for point 10. 
Fake the center of 4 and 5, s(]uare dowi> where line crosses on hip, measure y^ inch to 7S and 

^ inch to 74. 
Take the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure j^ 

inch to 13 and yi inch to 14. 
28 to 30 is Sy inches length of underarm measure. 
Draw new waist line from L to 30. 
R to T is 2^4 inches. 

Draw guide line from K at waist line to T. 
Go out from guide line on bust line 1 inch to U. 
Shape back and side gores as shown. 

Measure hip from V to 10, 15 to 74, 75 to 14, 13 to 33, which is 203'j inches, j/j of hip measure. 
33 to 18 is iy> inches. 

This 1^4 inches is taken out in the front dart at waist line between 9 and 8. 
Measure back neck A O, which is 2y2 mches. 

Place this 2y> inches at front neck on point 32 to 27, which is 15 inches neck measure. 
Draw center front line from 27 through O to 18 to length of coat. 
27 to Q is 7% inches, the highest point of chest. 
27 to M is 173^ inches. Length waist in front. 
Draw new waist line from 30 to M. 

To place dart, measure from M at waist line to 9, 3^4 inches. 
Take out from 9 to 8 1^4 inches. This l^^ inches we allowed from 33 to 18. 
On front bust line from Q measure over 3)4 inches, and from this point down to W measure 

3j4 inches. 
Take the center 8, 9, draw a line up to W, down and shape dart as diagram shows. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 19 




Diagram 7 



20 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



TIGHT BACK LOOSE FRONT COMPLETE. 

Diagram 8 

MEASURES. 

Bust ......38 inches Underarm 8^ inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hips ■. 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 956 — 7>4 inches 

Across Chest 15j4 inches Shoulder Height Back ....-8% — 6 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height to Waist 7j4 — 15>4 inches 

Shoulder 5^ jnches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

How to make garment double breasted. 

Measure from front line O 18, 2 inches to 26, 71 and draw line. 

For buttons measure the same distance back from front line O 18 and mark buttons as shown 

in diagram. 
To obtain collar and lapels measure from the deepest point of neck, 31 to 23, 1 inch. 
Draw a straight line from the bottom of lapel 26 through 23 to 24. 
32 to 21 is 2% inches, ^4 inch more than the neck measure O A. ' 

Square on line 26, 24. — ly^ inches, to 25 for standing band and 3 inches to 35. 
35 to 36 is yi inch for spring. 
Shape back line of collar from 25, 24, 21 to 36. 
Shape collar and lapel as diagram shows. 

Place separate paper under collar, trace out according to shape of collar. 
To trace lapel break on line 26, 24, turn paper under and trace out the shape of lapel, which will 

be reversed on oppositie side. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



21 




11 12 



Diagram 8 



22 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOME^f ■ 

TIGHT FITTING JACKET WITH TWO DARTS. 

Diagram 9 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Bust v^8 inches Underarm 8^ inches 

Waist 23 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hip - 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9_^ — 7y2 inches 

Across Chest IS^/^ inches Shoulder Height Back 8^4 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist.... 7J4 — 15/4 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7'4 — 17^ inches Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8J4 inches 

Length of Shoulder 5J4 inches 

MEASURES. 

Follow same instructions as given in First, Second and Third Lessons with exception i f front. 
At hip line measure from \' to 10, 15 to 74, "5 to 14, 13 to 18, which is 20>4 inches plus 1 inch. 

This 1 inch is taken out between the two front darts at hip line, j/j inch in each. 
Draw center front line from 27 through O 18, slightly shaped to 71. 
27 to D is 734 inches, the highest point of chest. 
27 to M is 1734 inches, length of waist in front. 
Draw new waist line from 30 to M. 
Place the 6^4 inches , which is 34 of back measure, on point 30, and measure over 12; 2 inches 

to point 63, which is ^ 01 waist measure. 
63 to M is 3 inches. 

These 3 inches are divided equally' into the two front darts at waist line, of 1 ! j inches each. 
To place darts, measure at waist line from M to 62, 2 inches. 

62 to 63 is 134 inches. 

63 to 9 is 1 inch. 

9 to 8 is 134 inches. 

On front bust line from D measure over 3^ inches, and from this point down 3 inches to U. 

From U measure over to W 234 inches, and from this point up to the bust line 23/ inches, 

which gives us the height of darts. 

Take the center of 62 and 63 at waist line, draw a line tip to U and measure 6 inches down 

from waist line to 57, 
Take the center of 8, 9 at waist line, draw a line up to ^V, and measure down 6 inches from 

waist line to 58. 
The first dart where line crosses on hip measure J4 in'^h to 59 and 34 i'l*-"!! to 60. 
The second dart where line crosses on hip measure 34 in.i-'h to 16 and '4 v\<:\\ to 17 and shape 

dart as diagram shows. 
To make garment double breasted measure from M at the waist line to 54. 1 incli. 
At neck 27 to 52 is 1 inch. 

Draw opposite line from 71 through 54, Q to ^1, ^2 to 51 is 4 inches. 
54 to 53 is 134 inches. 
71 to 55 is 234 inches. 
Shape front as diagram shows. 

To obtain lay down collar, measure from the deepest point of neck 31 to 23, 1 inch. 
Draw line from 27 through 23 to 24, 32 to 21 is 2-'4 inches, '4 ini-'li more than the back neck 

measure. A O. 
Square on line 27, 24, I34 inches to 2't< for standing band and 3 inches to Z'h. 
35 to 36 is 34 inch for spring. 
-Shape the back of collar from 25 through 24, 21 to 36, as shown in diagram. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



n 




Diagram 9 



24 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



TIGHT FITTING BACK LOOSE FRONT FRENCH SEAMS. 

Diagram 10 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm 8>4 inches 

Waist - -5 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hips 41 inches Shoulder Heights, Front 9>^ — 7]/2 inches 

Across Chest 15>2 inches Shoulder Heights Back 854 — 6 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist. ..734 — 1-^>^ inches 

Shoulder 5^ inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in the First, Second and Third Lessons, vvitli the exception of 

French seams. 
Back shoulder O to T is 3 inches. 
T to S is 2.>4 inches. 
At back bust line C to U is 3^ inches. 
Shape the back and side gore as aiagrani shows. 

At front shoulder 32 to 22 is 3 inches, the same as back shoulder O to T. 
22 to 20 is 2 inches. 

These 2 inches we add on point 3, which gives us point 19. 
20 to 19 is 2^4 inches, the same as back shoulder T to S. 
Reshape armscye from 28 through H to 19. 
On front bust 'line D to W is 334 inches. 
Shape the front as diagram shows. 
To make garment double breasted measure from the front ime O 18. 1 inches to 26, 71 and 

draw line. 
For buttons measure the same distance back from front line Q 18 and mark buttons as diagram 

shows. 
To obtain shawl collar and lapel, measure from the deepest point of neck 31 to 23, 1 inch. 
Draw a line from the botom of lapel at 26 through 23, 24. 
32 to 21 is 2M inches, 34 inch more than back neck measure A O. 
Square over on line 24, 26, 134 inches to 25 standing band and over to 35. 
35 to 36 is 34 inch for spring. 
Shape back line of collar from 25, 24, 21 to 30. 
Shape collar and lapel as diagram shows. 

Place separate piece of paper under collar and traced out according to shape of collar. 
To trace out lapel break on line 26, 24, turn paper under and trace out the shape of lapel, which 

will be reversed on opposite side. 
Cut out the two front gores, lay pattern together on point W at bust line and meet the two 

points on shoulder 22 and 20. 
At neck point 32 raise 34 inch and point 3 remains the same. 
Draw new shoulder line from 11 through 3 to 40. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



25 



2B(a. 24 




Diagram 10 



26 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



TIGHT FITTED JACKET FRENCH SEAMS. 

Diagram h 



MEASURES. 



Hust 38 

Waist - 25 

Hips 1- 41 

Across Chest IS"/ 

Neck 15 



inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
inches' 



Length Front of Waist /yl — 17^ inches 



L'nderarm 8>4 inches 

Across Back 14 inches 

Shoulder Height Front 9^^ — Jyi inches 

Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8yi inches 

Neck Height and to Waist....7>4 — IS^/^ inches 
Length of Shoulder 5)4 inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in the First, Second and Third Lessons with the exception of 

front and French seams. 
Back shoulder O to T is 3 inches. 
T to S, 2% inches. 
On bust line C to C is 3)4 inches. 
At hip measure from F to V, 1J4 inches. 
Take the center of L K square down, where line crosses on hip, measure )'s inch to 15, ji inch 

to 10. 
Take the center of 4, 5, square down where line crosses on hip, measure yi inch to 7:i, ^i inch 

to 74. 
Take the center of 6, 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure ^4 inch 

to 13 and y?, inch to 14. 
Measure hip from \' to 10, 15 to 74, 75 to 14, 13 to 18, which is20| inches J/ of hip measure 

plus 2 inches. These 2 inches are taken out at the front dart at hip, between 16 and 17. 
28 to 30 is 8^ inches underarm measure. 

Draw new waist line from L to 30, shape back as diagram shows. 
Measure back neck A O, which is Zyi inches, place these 2>4 inches on front neck at point 22, 

measure to 27, which is 15 inches neck measure. 
27 to O is 7'/i inches, the highest point of chest. 
27 to M is 17^ inches, length waist in front. 

Draw front line from M through O to 27 and down from .M to 18 slightly shaped to /I. 
Draw new waist line from 30 to J\I. 



in back on jwint 30. measure over 12y2 
; inch, which gi\es us point V. 



Place the 6J4 inches, which is 34 of waist measure, 

inches, which is '/j of waist measure jilus J 
9 to M is 214 inches. 
These 2"/^ inches more than the natural waist measure are taken out in front dart between 9 

and 8. 
At front shoulder, 32 to 22 is 3 inches, the same as back shoulder O to T. 
22 to 20 is 2 inches taken out. These 2 inches we add on ])oint 3, which gives us point 19. 
20 to 19 is 2)4 inches, the same as back shoulder T S. 
Reshape arniscye from 28 through H to 19. 
At front bust line O to W is 3^4 inches. 
•Shape the front as diagram shows. 

To make garment double breasted, measure from j\I at the waist line 1 inch to 54. 
At neck 27 to 52 is 1 inch. 

Draw opposite line from 71 through 54 O to 52. 
52 to 51 is 4 inches. 
71 to 55 is 2J/2 inches. 
54 to 53 is 1^ inches. 
Shape the front as diagram shows. 
Cut out the two front gores, lay pattern together at point W at bust line, and meet the two 

points on shoulder 22 and 20. 
At neck point 32 is raised "4 inch. 
Point 3 remains the same. 
Draw new shoulder line from 32 through 3 to -10. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



27 




Diagram 11 



28 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



REGULAR COAT SLEEVE. 

Diagram 12 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches To Elbow 19>4 inches' 

Half of Back 7 inches Full Length 29>4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line A — B. A to M is 3^ of back measure, 7 inches. A to L is l9'/2 inches to elbow. 

A to B is full length, 291/- inches. M to D is y^ of bust less 1 inch, 3,1/. inches. 

Square over all given points. M to S is J4 of bust, 9 inches. Square down S to H. This com- 
pletes box for sleeve. N is the center of M — .S. Square N to O, 2V2 inches. M to I 
is 1 inch. L to C is Vz inch. O to P is '/^ inch. T to R is 1 inch. R to U is y^ of 
bust plus 3^2 inch, 5 inches. 

K is the center of B — H. Square down J/ inch to J. 

H to G is 1 inch. Draw line from G through J to E. J to V is Sy^ inches. G to E is 6,'/ 
inches. 

Shape undersleeve from G — R — O — N — U lu V. 

Top sleeve from G — R — P — O — I — C — E. This completes coat sleeve. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



29 




Diagram 12 



30 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOW TO MAKE SLEEVE WIDER AT TOP. 

Diagram 13 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

A regular sleeve is 1 inch from M to I, in this case is 3^ inches. 

At elbow IK' inches C to C. 

At top. N to O is IK' inches, in this case 3 inches. 

Shape as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



31 




Diagram 13 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOW TO MAKE REGULAR SLEEVE SHORTER OR LONGER 

Diagram 14 
INSTRUCTIONS. 

Keep elliow in same place. The doUcil line is the original sleeve. This sleeve is 2 inches short- 
er, I inch at top and bottom. 
At top, A to E is 1 inch. 
C to G is 1 inch. 

At bottom, D to H is 1 inch, B to F is 1 inch. 
At undersleeve, I to M is 1 inch, K to O is 1 inch. 
L to P is 1 inch, J to N is 1 inch. 
The heavy line is the correct length. 

To make sleeve longer, the same way, add 1 inch on top and 1 inch at bottom. 
For regular sleeve follow same instructions as given in diagram 12, page 28. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



33 




Diagram 14 



34 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



BISHOP SLEEVE. 

UlAlJRAlM 15 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line A^B. A to J is 4>j inches, yi of bnst measure. J to D is ■{■ of bust measure, ') 
inches. D to B is H of bust measure, 9 inches. Square over ail given points. 

A to E is 16 inches, _' inches less than yj of bust measure. Square dovn E to K. 

This completes box for sleeve. 

Take center of K — B, which gives us point T. Square down T to M 3 inches. D to O and P 
to G is yi inch; X to 1' and j to C is I inch ; O is V^ the distance of A — E. 

Square up O to N i inch. A to F is 2/4 inches; E to 1 is 3}'4 inches. 

Shape sleeve as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 35 




Diagram IS 



36 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



SEMI-FITTING WITH UNDER GORE. 

DiAGRAJI 16 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm 8J4 inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hip - 41 inches Shoulder Height Front.- 9j^ — /J/j inches 

Across Chest 15j^ inches Shoulder Height Back.- 6 — 8)4 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist... .734 — 15^4 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7y^ — 173/^ inches Length of Shoulder 5^ inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in the First and Second Lessons, witli the exception of the 
back. 

At waist line E to J is 34 inch. 

At hip F to V 34 inch. 

Draw center back line from A through J V to 79. This garment is cut with a center back seam. 

At back shoulder R to T is 434 inches. 

.At waist line from J to 7 is 10 inches. 

Measure from 7 to 6, 1 inch. 

Take the center of J 6. and from this point measure vj^ of an inch to K anfl ^% of an inch to L. 

Where line crosses on hip, measure 34 of an inch to 10, and 34 of an inch to 15. 

Take the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down, and where line crosses on hip measure 

Yi, to 13 and }i, to 14. 

28 to 30 is 834 inches length of underarm. 

Draw new waist line 30 to L. 

Shape the back gores as diagram shows. 

To draft front, collar and lapel, follow instructions given in diagram 19, page 42. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



37 




Diagram i6 



38 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



SEMI-FITTING COAT WITH SEAMS AT SIDE AND SAILOR COLLAR. 

Diagram 17 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm 8J^ inches 

Waist - - 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hips - 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9^ — lYi inches 

Across Chest 15>4 inches Shoulder Heights Back 8^4 — 6 inches 

Neck 15 , inches Neck Height and to Waist. ..-7>4 — 15J/' inches 

Length Front Waist 7j4 — 17>^ inches Length of Shoulder — 5-^4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

r^ollow instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. 

At waist E to J is 'i inch. 

Draw center back line from A to J through \' to length of coat. 

At back shoulder, R to T is AYz inches. 

At waist, J to 7 is 10 inches. 

From 7 to 6 is 1 inch. 

Take the center of 6, 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure ■>4 of 
inch to 13 and 3,^ of inch to 14. 

At waist line take the center from J to 6, and from this point measure y% of an inch to K and '■/•& 
of an inch to L. Square down from this point where line crosses on hip, measure J4 
of an inch to 10 and Yi oi an inch to 15. 

28 to 30 is 8^/2 inches length of underarm. 

Draw new w^aist line from L to 30. 

For entire front follow same instructions as given in the semi-fitting coat, with the exception of 
shaping the seam to armhole. 

Shape seam to armhole instead of shoulder. 

Take out JS inch at armhole. Shape as diagram shows. 

To draft front, 'sailor collar and lapel follow same instructions as given in the semi-fitting 

coat with shawl collar. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



39 




-#B 



4zL-#f -n* m 



DIA^;KA^^ 17 



40 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



LOOSE SEMI-FITTING COAT. 



DlAGKAM 18 



MEASURES. 



Bust 38 

Waist 23 

Hip 41 

Across Chest 151-^ 

Neck 15 



inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 



Length Front of Waist 7^ — 17j4 inches 



Underarm 8>1 inches 

Across Back ._ 14 inches 

Shoulder Height Front 9^ — ■ 7>2 inches 

Shoulder Height Back 6 — 834 inches 

Neck Height and to Waist -.7 "4 — 1^34 inches 
Length of Shoulder 5)4 inclics 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as gi\en in First and Second Lessons. 

At waist line E to J >j inch. 

Draw center hack line from A through J \' to length of coat. 

At back shoulder O to T is 3 inches. 

T to S 2-I4 inches. 

( )n hack bust line Y to U is 2 inches. 

.■\t back waist line J to K is 3-':^ inches. 

K to L is 34 inch. 

L to 6 is 5 inches. 

6 to 7 is -H of an inch. 

Take the center of L K, square down where line crosses on hip, measure 34 i'l^'h io 10 and 

34 inch to 15. 
Take the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, nteasure -J^ 

of an inch to 13 and •} a inch to 14. 
28 to 30 is 8^2 inches underarm measure. 
Draw new waist line L to 30. 
Shape the two back gores as diagram shows. 
For the front, lapel and collar follow the same instructions as given in the semi-fitting c-oat with 

shawl collar. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



41 




Diagram 18 



42 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN . 

SEMI-FITTING COAT WITH SHAWL COLLAR. 

Diagram 19 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm S'/i inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hips 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9j/2 — 7^/2 inches 

Across Chest 15J.-2 inches Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8j4 inches 

Neck : 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist-.-7i4 — ^15>^ inches 

Length Front of Waist 7^ — 17^ inches Length of Shoulder 5^ inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in the First and Second Lessons. 

At waist line E to J is ^ inch. 

Draw center back line from A through J \' to length of coat. 

The back shoulder, O to T, is 3 inches. 

T to S is 2'>4 inches. 

On back bust line Y to U is 2 mches. 

Measure at back waist line from J to K Z-}^ inches. 

K to L, ■j4 of an inch. 

L to 6 is 5 inches. 

6 to 7 is 1 inch. 

J, K and L 6 is 7^/4 inches, Ijj inches more than '4 of the natural waist measure. 

Take the center of L K, square down wiiere line crosses on hip, measure J4 inch to 10, ^^2 inch 

to 15. 
Take the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure % 

of an inch to 13 and ^/g, of an inch to 14. 
28 to 30 is 83/' inches underarm measure. 
Draw new waist line from L to 30. 
Shape the two back gores as diagram shows. 
Measure hip from V to 10, 15 to 14, 13 to ^3, which is 20J.2 inches, j-i of nip measure, 23 to 18 

is !■/> inches. These I'/i inches are taken out between the dart on hip line, 16 and 17. 
Measure back neck, A O, which is 2'/: inches. Place these 2' 2 inches on point 32 on front neck, 

and measure to 27, 15 inches neck measure. 
Draw front line from O througli IS to 45. 
27 to Q is 73^4 inches, the highest point of chest. 
27 to M is U'/i inches, length front of waist. 
Draw new waist line from 30 to M. 

At front shoulder, 32 to 22 is 3 inclies, the same as back shoulder, O T. 
From O on front bust line measure 3H inches to W. 
At waist line, M to 9 is 3 inches. 
9 to 8 is 1>4 inches. 

At hip, 18 to 17 is 4 inches, and 17 to 16 is H/> inches. 

22 to 20 at shoulder is 2 inches taken out. These 2 inches we add on 3, which gives us point 19. 
Reshape armscye from 28 through H to 19. 
Shape the two front gores as diagram shows. 
To make garment double Ijreasted measure from front line O 18, 2 inches to 26, 71 and draw 

line. 
For buttons measure the same distance Ijack from front line Q 18 and mark buttons as diagram 

shows. 
To obtain collar and lapel measure from the deepest point of neck. 

31 to 23 is 1 inch. 

Draw a line from the bottom of lape! at 26 through 23 to 24. 

32 to 21 is 2^4 inches, 54 inch more than the back neck measure, A O. 

Square over on line 24, 26 — 1J4 inches, to 25 for standing band, and over to 3S. .Anv desired 

width of collar. 
35 to 36 is 34 inch allowed for spring. 
Shape back of collar from 25, 24, 21 to 36. 
Shape the collar and lapel as diagram shows. 

Place a separate piece of paper under collar and trace out collar according to shape. 
To trace lapel break on line 26, 24, turn ]5aper under and trace out the shape of lapel, which will 

be reversed on the opposite side. 
How to cut out the two front gores. 

Lay pattern together at point W at bust line and meet the points on shoulder 22 and 20. 
At point 32 on neck raise 34 inch. 
Point 3 remains the same. 
Draw new shoulder line from 32 through 3 to 40. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



4^ 




DlAC.NAM 19 



44 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



SEVEN EIGHTH FITFING COAT FOR CORPULENT FIGURE 

Diagram 20 



MEASURES. 



Bust 52 

Waist 39 

Hip 52 

Across Chest 18 

Neck 18 

Length Front of Waist ..8;^ — 17 



inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 



Underarm 8 inches 

Across Back 17 inches 

Shoulder Height Front 11 - 9 inches 

Shoulder Height Back 9'^- 7 inches 

Neck Height to Waist 8 -,-17 inches 

Length of Shoulder S'i inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 



1 inch we allowed is iost in cut- 



Draw line A, B. A to C is S'/i inches. A to li V'/i inches, length waist in back. 

E to F is 4 inches the first hip. F to B is 4 inciics the second hip. 

Square over points C, E, F and B on line A, B. 

C to D is yi of bust measure plus 1 inch in thi-; c.ise 27 inches. This 

ting out the pattern. 
D to Q is J/^ inch allowed for breathing. 
D to G is J4 of bust measure, in this case 6^ inches. 
G to H is ]/s of bust measure plus lyi inches, in this case A-Ji inches. 

C to Y in a regular 36 size is 2}i inches; we allow ^g more for each size in this case, which is 3J4 inches. 
C to I is 8^ inches, "X of back measure. 

Square points D and H up and down and square up points G, I, Y on line C, D. 
.\t back, C to P is 7 inches, second shoulder height back. 
Y to O is 9J-2 inches, first shoulder height back. 
Square over A and P on line A, B. 
In squaring over P point R is found crossing line I. 

R to S is 1 inch, in this case according to the length of the shoulder. 
Draft back neck, A O, and draw back shoulder, O to S. 
At front, H to 3 is 9 inches, second shoulder height front. 
G to X is 11 inches, the first shoulder height front. 

X to 32 in a regular 36 size is Ij^ inches. We allowed 14 more for each size, in this case it is 2]/^ inches. 
X to I in a regular 36 size is 2 inches. We allowed 1/16 of an incli more for each size, in this case it 

is 2"^ inches. 
Square point 1 to 27 and draw a line. 
Draft front neck curve from 32 to 27 and draw front shoulder from 32 .to 27, 6% inches, the same as 

back shoulder, O S. 
Z to 2 is 9;/2 inches, yi of chest measure. Draw arm scye from S through H, 2 to 7. 
.\t back shoulder O to T is 3% inches. T to 29 is '/^ inch taken out. This yi inch we add on point S, 

29 to S is 3 inches. We take out this 1/2 inch between T and 29 when the figure is round across 
the back. On back bust line, Y to U is 2 mches. 

.■\t waist line E to J is J^ inch. J to 4 is 14^4 inches; in this case we only need 11^ inches, which is 
J4 of the waist measure plus lyi mches. The other 2^ inches are taken out between the darts 

30 and 38, L and K. 

J to K is 4 inches. .K to L is 1 inch. L to 38 is 7!4 inches. 38 to 30 is 1}4 inches. 

30 to 37 is lJ/2 inches. In this case, in order to place the seam direct under the arm so the two jide 

gores will be equal. 
J, K and L 38 is II14 inches, which is Ij^ inches more than % of the natural waist measure which we 

allow in all % fitting coats. 
Take the center of L, K; square down, where line crosses on hip measure, J^ inch to 15 and % of an 

inch to 10. 
Take the center of 6 and 7; square down, where line crosses on hip measure, 1^4 inches to 13 and }4 

inch to 14. 
From the center line of L, K at bottom measure 6 inches to 44 and 4 inches to 43. 
From center line of 6 and 7 at bottom measure 4 inches to SO and 6J4 inches to 81, 28 to 30 is 8 inches 

length of underarm. 
Draw a new waist line from L to 30 and shape the two back gores as diagram shows. 
Measure hip from V to 10; IS to 14; 13 to 33, which is 26 inches, !i of hip measure. 33 to 18 is 3 

inches. These 3 inches less i/o inch are taken out between tlie front dart at hip line 16, 17. 
This yi inch less we leave in on all stout figures. 
Draw front line from Q through 18 to 45. 

At neck, from 27 to Q is SJ-^ inches, the highest point of chest. 
27 to M is 16 inches, length waist in front. 
Draw new waist line from 30 to M. 

At front shoulder, 32 to 22 is 3% inches, the same as back shoulder, O, T. 
22 to 20 is 3 inches taken out in this case when the figure has a high chest. 
These 3 inches we allow on point 27 which gives us point 40. 
Shape arm scye from S through 28 to 40. At bust line D to W is 4 inches. 
.At waist line M to 9 is 3)4 inches. 9 to 8 is 2 inches. 
.\t hip line 18 to 17 is 4^ inches. 17 to 16 is 25-2 inches. 
.Shape the two front gores as diagram shows. 
For double-breasted, collar and lapel, also how to lay pattern together and cut out, follow the same 

instructions given in diagram 19, page 42. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



45 




#2-^ 



Diagram 20 



46 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HIPLESS COAT 

Diagram 21 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches I'nderarin 8y^ inches 

Waist 23 inclics Across Back 14 inches 

Hip 41 inches Shoulder Height Front- 93^2 — 7/2 inches 

Across Chest l5'/2 inches Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8J4 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist-. --7^4 — 15>j inches 

Length Front of Waist 7;4 — 17j^ inches Length of Shoulder S-}^ inciics 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions for box. as semi-fitting coat Diagram 19. Our natural waist line is 
E to S2. Go un 21-2 inches, which is point W. W to J is '/2 inch; J to K is 3'/4 inches; 
K to L is 'ji inch ; L to 10 is Syi inches; 10 to 12 is 1 inch; 30 is half of L to K. 
Square down to 14. 11 is half of 10 to 12; square up to 9 and down to 18. 

(^n line 30 — 14 come out on hip ji to 41, ', _■ to V; on line 9 — 18 come out on hip :ys to 17; 
^ to 13 and shape gores as shown in (hagram. 

Length front of waist from U to 4 is 15 inches; draw waist line 4 to 12 and take out between 
3 and 2, 1 inch ; complete coat according to diagram. For double breasted collar, and 
lapel follow same instructions as given in diagram 19, page 42. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



47 




24 23 



Diagram 21 



48 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



LOOSE STRAIGHT LINE COAT. 

Diagram 22 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm 8}^ inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hips 41 inches Shoulder Heights, Front 9>2 — /'/i inches 

Across Chest ISy? inches Shoulder Heights Back 834 — 6 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist.... 7j4 — 15!'2 inches 

Length Front Waist 7% — 17>'j inches Shoulder /. ^j-i inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. 

From V at waist line measure up I'j inches to E and square over. 

From E to J measure Ja inch. 

J to K is 5 inches. 

K to L is 1/2 inch. 

L to 6 is 3->4 inches. 

6 to 7 is '/> inch. 

Take the center of L K and square down, and where line crosses on hip measure '4 inch to 

10, and I '2 inch to 15. 
Take the center of 6 and 7, square up lo 2S and down where line crosses on hip. 
Measure ^ of inch to 13, .^g of inch to 14. 
28 to 30 is 7 inches underarm measure. 
Shape the two back gores as diagram shows. 
Follow same instructions for the front as given in semi-fitting coat, with the exception of the 

length in front, which is 16 inches. 
This coat is cut without a lap. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



49 




Diagram 22 



50 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



MONTE CARLO BOX COAT. 

Diagram 2} 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches L'nderarm 8J/2 inches 

Waist .25 inches .\cross Back 14 inclies 

Hip 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 10'4 — &/i inches 

Across Chest ISyi inches Shoulder Height Baci< 8>4 — 6^ inches 

Neck - 13 inches Neck Height and to Waist.. /j^l — 13j/ inches 

Length of Shoulder 5^ inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

It is necessary after the regular shoulder heights are taken to allow an extra jj inch on front 
shoulder, ^-^ inch on back shoulder. 

Follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. 

Length of coat, S2 inches. 

At waist line from 1') to L is y'j inch. Draw back line from .-\. through L to 13, 

On bust line from .^ to 22 is 2 inches. 

Square poitU 22. which locates point 4. 

For back part on waist line from 4 to 6 is 1 inch. 

Draw straight line from 22 through 6 to 13. This completes l>ack. 

At front on hi]j line from 18 to M is 1 inch. Draw front line from 11 through O — M to full 
length. 

For front part on hip from 4 to 7 is 1 inch. 

Draw straight line from 22 through 7 to 10. Connect 10 with 16, 

Allow \y2 inches from box line, as shown at bottom. 

To place dart at shoulder, measure from (j on bust line, i-V^ inches over, from this point down 
1>4 inches to W, 

At shoulder from 9 to 8 is 2 inches ; 8 to 14 is 3 inches taken out. These 3 inches add on point 
12, which gives us point 3. Reshape armscye from 5 to 3. 

In cutting out the dart place dart together at shoulder, points 8 — 14. 

Square over shoulder, raise shoulder yi inch to point 9 — 8 — 14 to 3. 

This coat is cut without a collar or lap, ^ ' 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



51 




Diagram 2^ 



52 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



TWO-PIECE COAT. 

Diagram 24 



MEASURES. 



Bust 38 inches 

Waist 25 inches 

Hips 41 inches 

Across Chest 15^ inches 

Neck 14 inches 

Length Front of Waist TYi, — 17>4 inches 



Underarm 8J^ inches 

Across Back 14 inches 

Shoulder Height Front 9^^ — 7y2 inches 

Shoulder Heights Back 8^4 — 6 inches 

Neck Height and to Waist... 7^4 — 15'/2 inches 
Length of Shoulder S^ inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 
Follow same instructions for box, only as semi-fitting coat. 

BACK. 

1. E to J at waist line is I inch, J to K 5 inches and K to L 1 inch ; 23 is one-half of K and L; 

square down to 14 full length of garment ; from F to 43 is one-half inch at hip line ; 14 
to 15 is XYi inches; 14 to 16 is 5 inches; B to 22 is ^ inch. 

2. Draft back from 22 through 43— J to A and 15 through W — K to T ; T is about half the 

distance on armscye S — H ; now draft part of your front from 16 through V ; V is ^ 
inch from W L to T. 

FRONT. 

1. Measure underarm 83/2 inches from H to 1 and length front waist 17J/2 inches from U to 

8 and draw from 8 to L ; take out on line H between 1 and 2, Ya, inch and make dart to 
3 about 4 inches below waist line ; front dart place directly under bust, taking out about 
1 inch from 5 and 6, making point 4 about 3>-j inches below bust line and point 7 about 
7 inches below waist line. 

2. 10 to 9 is 1^ inches; D to Q is J^ inch; now draw front line of jacket from 9 through Q 

to U and down to 12; place button stand, line 11, 2-3-4 inches back from front line 12 
and double breasted front line 13 — 20, 3 inches forward and add from 20 to 19 and 18 



to 17 1 inch for turning in. 



COLLAR. 



Bring your shawl collar down to about 2 inches above waist line front ; draw a straight line 
up from 20, going in at X about 1 inch, and up to 34 from X, 2V\ inches, which is neck 
length back O — A; square points 34 to 35, I34 inches and to 32, 3 inches; add for spring 
of collar back, from 32 to 33, Ya inch. 

Draft under collar from 35 through 37 to 38 ; draft shawl effect from 20 to ii as shown ; to 
get spring of collar draw a line 30 — 36 and make 27 and 31, 1^ inches from 30 and draft 
curve to 36 ; break line 34 — 20 under and trace shawl 20 — 38 — y? to get front shawl 
20-39—37. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN 



53 




B 2S 



17 18 



Diagram 24 



54 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

LOOSE BOX COAT. 

Diagram 25 

MEASURES. 

liust -^i"^ inches L iiderarni Syj inches 

Waist - -3 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hip 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 10 — 8 inches 

Across Chest 1?/j inches Shoulder Height IJack Syi — 6j4 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist.— 7^4 — 153^2 inches 

Length Front Waist 7^— 173<2 inches Length of Shoulder 5% inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 
It is necessary after the regular shoulder heiglits are taken to allow an extra Ij inch on front 

shoulder; ^s ine-h on back shoulder. 
Draw a line A to 15, which is 52 inches. From .\ to C is />'_> inches, neck height in hack. 
.•\ to 19 is ISyi inches, length of waist in Ijack. 

19 to L is 4 inches, the first hip ; L to F is 4 inches, second hip. 
Square over on points C 19, L F and 15 on line A 15. 

From C to D is >4 of bust measure plus 1^ inches, in this case 20>^ inches. 

D to Q is 3^ inch allowed for breathing. D to G is 34 of l>ust, in this case 5^^ inches. 

U to Tis % of bust plus l',2 inches, in this case 4 1-16 inches. 

C to 20 is 234 inches. 

This change of yk inch more or less is according to larger or smaller sizes. 

C to 1 is 7 inches, yi of back measure. 

Square points D and 5 up and down on line C D. 

Square up points (i I and 20 on line C I). 

C to P is 63/4 inches, the second shoulder height back. 

20 to O is 8>2 inches, the first shoulder height hack. 

Square over A and P on line A 15. In squaring over 1^ point R is found cmssing line I. 

R to S is >^ inch. 

Draft neck A O and draw back shoulder from O to S, which is .1^4 inches. 

.\\. front, from 5 to 39 is 834 inches, second shoulder height front. 

Square point 39. G to X is IO34 inches, the first shoulder heiglit front. 

Square X to 29, 3 inches for this style coat only. 

Draw shoulder from 29 to 4, which is 5-Ki inches. 

Square down X to 1, 2 inches. S(|uare over point 1 to 27. 



of chest measure. 



Draw neck curve from 29 through 27 to 24. From Z to 2 is 7->4 inches, 

Draw armscye from .S — 28 — 5 — 2 to 4. 
Draw front line from 24 through Q J\I to 40. 
This com])letes the box. At back waist line measure from 19 to 17. '2 inch. 
Draw straight line from .A. through 17, K, 16 to B full length. 
.\t the back shoulder from S measure 43^ inches to 28. 
At waist line in back measure from 17 to 8, 6/2 inches. 
.\t second hip measure from 16 to 18, 7 inches. 
Draw straight line from 7 down through 18 to 13 and up from 7 slightly shaped tlirougli 8 to 

28. This completes the back part. 
I<"or front part at waist line measure from 8 to 9, 2 inches. 
Draw a straight line down from 9 to 10 and up from 9 to 28. 
To place dart in coat at shoulder measure from O on the bust line 3!4 inches o\er, and from 

this point down measure 1 inch to \\ . 
.\t top shoulder from 32 to 33 is 2>^ inches, from 33 to 14 is 3 inches taken out. The.se 3 inches 

are added on the remaining shoulder from_14 to 3. 
To place the dart under the arm. measure from 5 to 6. 1 inch, and 6 to 41. 10 inches. 
Take the center of 6 and 41 and shape out ;4 inch each side as shown in diagram. 
To make garment double breasted, collar and lapel, follow diagram 19, page 42. 
In order to find out how much spring the collar requires, lay the liack part of coat shoulder to 

shoulder on the front part, which is shown in diagram indicated by ditto marks. 
Square over from the back line of coat A C. From ])oint C to 36 is 634 inches plus '^ inch, 

which is the amount required for spring. 
Place the spring in the collar by drawing a line through the center of collar at the top of shoulder 

from point 30 to 12. 
.Allow from 12 to 22, ^y^ inches, and from 12 to 11. ?i^2 inches, which gi\-es us the amount of 

spring required. 
Trace out the front part of collar from 30 to 22 to 37 to 30. 
Trace the back part of collar from 30 to 11, 36. 21. 34 to ,iO. which gives us the two parts of 

collar, as shown in the lower diagram of coat. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



55 




Diagram 2 5 



56 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



ULSTER WITH SEPARATE SKIRT. 

Diagram 26 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches L'nderarm SjA inches 

Waist 23 inches Across Rack 14 inches 

Hips 41 inches Shoulder Height Front Oyi — 7X' inches 

Across Chest 15>2 inches Shoulder Heights F)aci< 8^ — 6 inches 

Xeck 13 inches Length Liack to Waist 7]4 — 15^ inches 

Length Front of Waist 7}i — 17>^ inches Shoulder 5^4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draft the same as tight fitting jacket to first hip. except back, which is straight down lo 

full length of garment. 58 inches, to point 49. The l)ack of this garment is always open 
^nd has a plait as shown. 

2. Cut jacket through between waist and hip as shown 15 — 13, or any other shape desired. 

3. Skirt : Draw first and second hip lines, a continuation of box as shown. 35 to 41 is hip 

measure less back, distance 54^V. 36 to 41 is same measure as 15 — 54. From 36 to 
35 is waist curve same as 15 to 13. .\t fullest part of hip take out a dart in V shape 2 
inches 31 — 32, and make same about 4)'! inches deep, which seam is covered with a 
pocket, as diagram shows. 

4. From 35 to 47 is a straight line coming slightly out at bottom. The sweep at bottom is 

2j4 times bust measure, making same 4234 inches. Measure 42?4 inches from 49 to 46: 
47 to 50, wl'.irb is the point given by meisure. Connect 36 witn 50 and add plait as 
shown 36 — 34 and .50—48. 36 to 50 is the length 15 to 46, and after obtaining this point 
shape sweep from 50 to 47, as diagram shows. 

5. Collar : Turn down collar. The rules are same as notch collars, with the exception of shajie, 

which follows as diagram. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



57 




Diagram 26 



58 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN . 

LOOSE COAT RAGLAN SLEEVE 

Diagram 27 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm 8^ inches 

Waist - 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hips 41 inches Shoulder Height Front IQ- 8 inches 

Across Chest 15^ inches Shoulder Height Back S''^- 6J4 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist. ...714 — 15>4 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7]/^ — 171/2 inches Length of Shoulder 5^ inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 
I<"or coat follow same instructions as given in the loose coat. For raglan, the back part. 
Draw a line from C) to the side of armhole. 
Place the square on that line, and let the right angle rest on S, which produces point 11. 11 to 

21 is 1 inch. 
Shape the top of shoulder from U, 21 to T. The forepart, H to 7, is 1 inch. 7 to 5 is j-x inch. 
Draw line from 5 to 18, place the square to that line and let the right angle rest on U, which 

produces point 24. 
24 to 23 is 1J4 inches. 18 to 8 is ^/^ inch. Shape the shoulder from 8, li to 5. 
From' I to T is 2% inches, same distance as the back sleeve, D to I. 
Place a notch at T and a notch at 5. .Measure the distance on the straight line from T to t), 

which is 8 inches. 
Measure the distance from 8 to 5 on the straight line, which is 10;/> inches. 
Measure the distance from 18 to .^. in this case 5)4 inches, the length of shoulder. 
This completes the raglan. 

PLAIN SLEEVE AND RAGLAN 

■ Diagram 28 

MEASURES. 

Bust .'....i8 inches Length to Flbow 19^^ inches 

Half of Back 7 inches Length to Wrist : •. 2934 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 
Draw a line .A B. A to M is 7 inches, y^ of back measure. 

.\ to L is 1914 inches, length to elbow. 8 to B is 29yj inches, the length to wrist. 
Square over points M, L and B. M to S is 9)4 inches, 34 of Inist measure. 
Square S down, , which gives us point H. 

M to D is J4 of bust measure less 1 inch, in this case 4-?4 inches. 
Square over D to point Q. N is one-half the distance between .S and .M. 
M to I is 1 inch. Square over point I to C. 
y to P is J4 inch for top sleeve. T to R is 1 inch. 
R to U is 3^ of bust measure plus 34 inch, in this case 5'4 inches. 
H to G is 1 inch. K is the center of H and Jj. 
K to J is 3^ inch. Draw line from G through J over. 
For undersleeve P to J is 3)4 inches, and G to E is 6 inches. 

.At top of sleeve N to O is 2)4 inches. Shape top of sleeve from I, O, 1^, R, G, E, L lo I. 
Shape the undersleeve from Q, R, E, G, \". I', C to O. This completes the plain coat sleeve. 

For raglan sleeve Y to W is the same distance as the top shoulder of coat from 5 to 18 — 10)4 
inches. 

1 to A is ^ inch less than the distance from T to () at the liack ]«irt of raglan. This ■'<( inch 

is eased over the shoulder in back. 
Sweep at point W backward, pivoting at point Y. 
Sweep from point A forward, pivoting at point I. 

to 8 is 5)4 inches, length of shoulder. Sweep from jioint 8 backward and forward, ]iivoting 

at point O. 
This marks two cross lines, one through X and F. X to 9 is ]'l inch. F In 10 is '4 inch. 

This is the 34 inch taken ofl' from IS lo 8 at top shoulder front. 
Shape the top of sleeve from O to 10 and O to 9. 
Draw a straight line from Y to X and from I to F. 

1 to 2 is 1 inch, and shape the sleeve from Y through 2 to X. 

4 to 3 is )4 inch, and shape the sleeve from T through 3 to F. 

From 6 to 7 is 1 inch, from 5 to 6 is )4 inch. 

Dotted line shows where the sleeve is cut through with a seam on top, as .shown in diagram. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



59 





Diagram 27 



Diagram 28 



6o THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOW TO PLACE DART IN FRONT OF RAGLAN 

Diagram 29 



It is necessary in all loose coats to place a dart from the shoulder to the bust line, in order to 
give the garment proper fit over the bust. In this case cut out the entire front of raglan, 
lay another piece of paper under for a new front. Measure over from the center front 
line at point 3 on the bust line, 3^/4 inches to 4. 

4 to 5 is IJ^ inches below the bust line. 

From point 5 square a line down to the bottom of the coat, as the dotted line shows. Split this 
line open up to .^. 

To place dart, at shoulder measure from the top of neck over to 1, 2 inches. Connect 1 with 
5, and cut through on this dotted line. Pivot on point 5, open the shoulder from 1 to 2, 
2 inches for dart which swings the bottom of coat from 8 to 7 and 9 to 10. Mark out 
the entire coat from A to neck, 1. 2, to 6. 

Pivot at point 6, swing point 10 back to 9 and 7 to 8, which gives us the same fullness before 
placing the dart at shoulder. 

Reshape the bottom, which gives us a drop at the front part of coat, as the diagram shows. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



61 




Diagram 29 



62 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOW TO MAKE A RAGLAN FROM A BLOCK PATTERN. LOOSE COAT. 

Diagram 30 

IXSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line from il to 2. 2 is the deepest point from armscye. 

41 to 39 is 1 inch. 

Shape from 2 through 39 to "hi. 

Back part. Draw line from O to T. 

T is the deepest part of armscye in Ijack. 

38 is about the center of O. T. 

Square over 38 to yj — 1 inch. 

Shape as shown. 

For double breasted collar and lapel, follow same instructions as given in diagram 19, page 42. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



63 




Diagram 30 



64 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOW TO MAKE A COAT WITH A DEEP ARMHOLE FROM A BLOCK 

PATTERN. 

Diagram 31 



Lay pattern together as diagram shows. 

To place a seam under the arm, measure down from the front neck, 3 to 5, 8 inches. 
.Square 5 to 6, 11 inches. 

At bottom, from 2 to 8 is 16^2 inclies, and draw line from 6 to 7 to 8. 

This may be cut in a one piece coat or with a seam as desired. 

At armhole, from 6 to 7 is 4 inches. 

It may be cut higher or lower if desired. 

Shape armhole as shown. For double breasted collar and lapel follow same instructions as 
given in diagram 19, page 42. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



65 




Diagram 31 



66 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DRAFT SLEEVE FOR DEEP ARMHOLE. 

Diagram 32 

Draw line A to B ; A to 7 is 5^ of bust measure, 4J4 inches ; 7 to B is 18>2 inches, full length 
sleeve; 7 to 9 is 3-34 inches, 1 inch less on each inch we go down distance from 6 to 7 at 
underarm of coat; 9 to 2 is 1^ inches; 8 to 1 is 1^4 inches. 

Draw a straight line from A to 11, from 11 to C, from A to 5, and from C to 4 is 5 inches. 

Shape sleeve as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



67 




D®- 



4)B 



Diagram 32 



68 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



COLLARLESS SEMI-FITTING KIMONO COAT. 



Diagram 33 



MEASURES. 



Bust 38 inches 

Waist 25 inches 

Hip 41 inches 

Across Chest IS^^ inches 

Neck 15 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7% — 17j^ inches 



Underarm 85^ 

Across Back 14 

Shoulder Height Front 9>'^^ Jj/j 

Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8>4 

Neck Height and to Waist.. -.7>4 — ISyi 
Length of Shoulder 5)4 



nches 
nches 
nches 
nches 
nches 
nches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 



Follow diagram 19, page 42 for a semi-fitting coat. 

This coat is cut with an underarm gore and body. 

From 28 to 62 is 1 inch. 

62 to 50 and 54 is l-j4 inches. 

Square up at 62 17^^ inches to 67, length of underarm gore. 

Square over from 67 to 68 and 66, 1 inch. 

Connect 68, 50, 66 and 54. 

Connect 50 with 64 and 54 with 64, and this completes the undregore of body. 

Cutting a collarless coat you always allow an extension from the natural neck line. In this case 

we allow lyi inches raise for the back and front of neck. 
Back neck, A to 53, O to 52. 
Neck point, 32 to 56. 

Raise -)4 inch of the back shoulder from R to 51, for side back gore. 
Draw line from 50 through H to 61, 6 inches. 
62 to 63 is 33/2 inches. 

From 60 draw a line through 63 to 60, which is \7}.'2 inches, length of undergore sleeve. 
Square on line 60 — 50 to 58, 6 inches. 
60 to 59 is 1>^ inches. 
Now shape sleeve 52 through T, 51. 61, 58, 59 through 63 to the side gore from 50 through 6 — 

14 to the length of coat over to 44 up through 15 L and T. 
This completes the side gores as diagram shows. 

THE FRONT SIDE GORE AND SLEEVE. 

Draw a line from 54 through 1 to 65, 6^ inches. 

Draw a line from 54 through 63 to 98. 

Square over on 98 to 47 — 4 inches. 

47 to 48 is lyi inches. 

This lyj inches we lost between 22 and 20 on front shoulder. 

From 98 to 46 is I3/2 inches. 

Draw line from 46 to 54. 

Reshape sleeve from 46 slightly curve through 63 to 54. 

Shape sleeve and body from 20 through 3—^0 — 65 down to 48 over to 46 front side of body, 

from 54 — 30 — 13 the length of coat over to 12 up tlirough 16 — 8 — W and 20. 
This completes the sleeve and front side gore. 
To make garment double breasted. 

Go out from the front line 2j/2 inches and the same distance back for buttons. 
At neck, 55- — ^27, take out 1 inch and shape as diagram shows. 
This completes the diagram. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



C9 



66 67 68 




Diagram 3) 



70 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



SHAWL COLLAR CUT WITH SEAM ON SHOULDER. 
SHOWN ON BLOCK PATTERN. 

Diagram 34 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

At neck, from 16 to 23 is 1 inch. Draw line from 26 through 23 to 13. From l.-i to 12 is 1^4 
inches. Shape collar from 12 through break line to 7. 

.\t front shoulder, from 5 to 3 is V4 inch allowed for spring. Draw line from 12 — 13 — 20 — 3 
to 4. 

Trace out front part of collar -I — 3 — 13 — 12 — 7 to 4. 

To trace out lapel, turn paj)er under on line 2f> — 13, and give the shape of lapel on opposite side. 

Between 14 — 13 take out 44 inch. .Shape dart down 5 inches to 9. 

This j/\ inch we lose add on lapel at 19 to 17. This completes lapel and front part of collar. 

l''or back part of collar, 13 to 24 is 2y2 inches, the neck measure of back coat. Square over on 
break line. 26 — 24, any desired length for collar, in case 15 inches to 11, as shown in 
dotted line. Place the neck curve, 20 — 22, as shown in dotted line. 

l'"or stand band of collar, from 24 to 2? is 1''4 inches. 

.\t back shoulder, from 2 to 1 is '4 i'l"-"!! raise for spring. 10 to 11 is ''4 inch raise for spring. 

Shape collar on l)ack shoulder, 12 to iS, making same length as front shoulder. 12 to 4. 

Shape back collar from 2.5—2-1 — 22— 10— 1 l^S— 20— 13— 12, as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 




Diagram 34 



72 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



SET ON COLLAR AND LAPEL. SHOWN ON BLOCK PATTERN. 

Diagram 35 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line from 26 to 16. 16 to 23 is 1 inch; 22 to 20 is I34 inches. Draw line from 23 to 26. 
Break line. Draw line 20 to 26. 

.\t front shoulder 7 to 8 is ^ inch allowed for spring. 

Draw line from 20 — 23 — 7 to 4. 4 to 5 is 3 inches taken out for close-fitting collar over arm. 
Shape front collar from 26 to 5 — 7 — 23 — 20 down to 26. 

For back part of collar 22 to 24 is 23^ inches, neck measure of back. Square on lireak line 24 
— 26 over to 3, as dotted line shows, any desired length, in this case 21 inches. 

Place the neck curve of the back part of coat 21 — 17, as shown in dotted line. For stand band, 
from 24 to 25 is 1J4 inches. At back shoulder, from 10 to 9 is 34 inch allowed for spring. 
Draw line on back shoulder from 17 to 11, making same length as front shoulder, 17 to 4. 
11 to 12 is 3 inches taken out. 3 to 1 is j^i inch spring. 

Shape back collar from 25 — 24 — 21 — 2 — 12 — 9 — 17 — 23 — 20, as shown. 

For front part of coat, cut away on line 26 — 16 and set on lapel on same line of coat, 26 to 20. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 




Diagram 35 



74 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



TWO PIECE KIMONO COAT WORKED FROM BLOCK PATTERN. 

Diagram 36 
INSTRIXTIONS. 

To place the seam of coat under the arm, take off tlie front 1 to 2. 1 inch. 

10 to 11 is 2 inches. Draw straight line from 1 to 11. The distance we take oft' the front 
from 1 — 2 and 11 — 10 add on the underarm of back coat, D — E — N — M. 

.\t front measure from 3 to 4, 20 inches, square over to 9, 26^ inches, square up on line -I — 9 
to 7 7 '4 inches square over 7 to 8. 2'i> inches. 6 to 3 is 2'^ inches. 

Draw line from 11 — Ct — 9 — 8 — \() — 1.^ — 14. This completes the front. 

BACK PART. 

I'Vom X to P is 19 inches. Square over to J 25^4 inches. Square up J to H 8 inches. Square 
<)\er H to I 1)4 inches. K to L is P)4 inches. C to B is ^ inch raise. 

Draw line from M — L — J — I — B — A. This completes the back part. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



75 




Diagram 36 



76 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



LOOSE FRONT JACKET 3-8 INCH SEAM ALLOWED. 

Diagram 37 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches L'nderarni 83^ inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hip 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9}^ — 7^ inches 

Across Chest .' 15^ inches Shoulder Heights Back 8J4 — 6 inches 

Neck 15 inches Xeck Height of Waist 714 — 15^ inches 

Length Front of Waist 7 — 17 inches Length of Shoulder 5% inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 



-*i£i¥-'-^ 



1. Draw line A — B. 
C — D is bust line; C to A is 7^ inches, length in back; C to P is inches, second shouldei 

height back ; E is waist line, and 16 inches from A. 
From E to F and F to B are 4 inches apart, which are first and second hip points. Square 
points A, P, C, E, F, on line A — B. 

2. C to D is 22 inches, or ^ of bust measure jilus 3 inches, which is allowed for seams. D 

to G is 5 inches, Y^ oi Yz bust measure, 20 inches, and square up. G to H is 4 inches, Y& 
of Y2 t)ust measure plus \Y2 inches and square up and down. C to I is 7^ inches 
across back, and square up. C to Y is 2^ inches, and square up. Y to O is 8f^ inches, 
first shoulder height back. R to S is 1 inch. H to 3 is 7^ inches, and intersect point 
with line. G to X is 9^/;^ inches; X to 1 is 2Y inches; square line 1 to get neck line 
front. Z to 2 is 7-]/\ inches (chest measure plus seam.j 
Draft neck curve back A O and shoulder back O S. Shoulder front, line X to line 3 is the 
same length as back shoulder, O — S. Draft armscye, starting from S through H — 2 
to line 3. 

3. E to J is 1J4 inches, and connect J with A for back line. J to K is 1% inches; K to L is 

1 inch ; L to 4 is 3J4 inches ; 4 to 5 is 1 inch ; 5 to 6 is 2>Ya inches ; and 6 to 7 is 1^ inches. 
The proportions for gores as just given are the same as 1 escribed in diagram 8, page 8, 

with the exception that ^ of an inch is allowed for seams. 
Fine center of K — L, 4 — 5, 6 — 7, and square down. 

4. F to V is 1J4 inches. 10 and 15 are 34 inch from center line; 11 and 12 are Y?, inch from 

center line; 14 is 3,^ inch and 13 is 34 inch from center line. 
Draft gores and back through just given points as diagram shows. Afeasure hip the same as 
described in previous lessons, allowing 3 inches more for seams. The front collar and 
lapel, including the dart, are the same as described in diagram 8. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



77 




Diagram)? 



78 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



NINETEEN-GORE CORSET JACKET. 

Diagram 38 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm Syi inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hip 41 inches Shoulder Height P>ont 10'4 — 8)4 inches 

Across Chest 15jX inches Shoulder Height Back Syi — 63/4 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist.— 7>4 — 15^^ inches 

Length Front of Waist 7^ — 17>^ inches Length of Shoulder 5->4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. The box, shoulder lieights, collar and front are exactly the same as previous jacket lessons, 

with the exception of divisions of waist and hip. 

2. Waist: E to J is J4 inch and is straight up and down to A — 37 without seams in back. 

J to K is Vs inch: K to L is yi inch; L to 41 is l'/4 inches; 41 to M is yi inch; M to 42 
is 1J4 inches; 42 to 22 is yi inch; 22 to T is 1)4 inches; T to 30 is V4 inch; 30 to 40 
is lyi inches; 4 to 5 is 1 !4 inches; 5 to 6 is lj4 inches; 6 to 7 is 1 inch; 7 to 8 is ly4 
inches ; 8 to 9 is Kj inch ; 9 to 34 is 1 J4 inches ; 34 to 33 is ^^ inch : 33 to W is lj4 inches ; 
W to LT is ->4 inch. Increase and decrease width of gores for larger or smaller sizes. 

3. Divide K— L ; 41^M ; 42 — 22; T — 30; A — 5 into half and draw straight lines down and up 

and down between 4 and 5. From these guide lines just obtained, measure on fullness 
over hip on each ^ore. Allow for this fullness J4 inch on each side of guide line, as is 
readily seen in diagram. mt^fx 

4. The seams on shoulders are 2 inches apart and are cut through by gores ; y^ inch is to be 

taken out in darts on hip line in front, as 14 — 15, 16 — 17, 32 — 19, 20 — 38 show. 
Now measure hip, applying the same rule as in previous lessons. Length of this jacket to 
suit customer. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



7Q 




Diagram 38 



80 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



ETON JACKET. 



Diagram 39 



MEASURES. 



Bust - 
Waist 
Hips . 



.38 

.25 
..41 



inches 
inches 
inches 



Across Chest 15>4 inches 

Neck 15 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7^4 — 17^ inches 



Underarm 8>2 inches 

.\cross Back 14 inches 

Shoulder Height Front 9>4 — /'/z inches 

Shoulder Heights Back 8j4 — 6 inches 

Neck Height of ^^'aist 7}i — 15>4 inches 

Length of Shoulder Si/i inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in diagram 80. except the front. 

2. From front line D add 1 inch to O — 18 — 27, and draft line as shown through just given 
points to give vest effect. The dart 8 to 9 is 2j/ inches wide and 3 inches below bust 
line. The bottom of Eton may be made to any desired shape. 

This Eton shows a heavy braid trimming around the edges. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



8! 




DlAGI^M 39 



82 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



RUSSIAN BLOUSE. 

Diagram 40 



Bust -58 

Waist 2:i 

Hip 41 

Across Chest 15/^ 

Neck 15 

Length Front Waist 7]/^ — 1/J^ 



MEASURES. 

inches Under Arm 8>^ inches 

inches Across Back 14 inches 

inches Shoulder Height Front 9j^ — 7>^ inches 

inches Shoulder Height, Back 8^ — 6 inches 

inches . Neck Height and to Waist....7>4 — 15>4 inches 

inches Length of Shoulder 5^ inches 



inches. 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. 

At waist line E to J is l>j inches. 

J to 7 is 9>4 inches. 

In this case we need 634 inches, which is ]A, of l':\ inches, the waist measure in back. 

The other 3j4 inches are taken out between the two gores, L, K, lj4 inches, 6, 7, 2- inches. 

J K is 3^4 inches. 

K L is l>i inches. 

L 6 is 3 inches and 6, 7, is 2 incnes. 

J, K and L 6 is 614 inches, y^, of waist measure in back. 

At back shoulder, S to 29 is AVz inches. 

28 to 30 is 8^2 inches, length of underarm measure. 

Draw new waist line from L to 30. 

Shape back gores as diagram shows. 

From the box line at the first hip in front measure from 78 to 18, 3 inches. 

Draw front line from 27 to 18 ; 27 to D is 7 inches, the highest point of chest. 

27 to M is 17 inches, length waist in front. 

Draw new waist line from 30 to M. 

To place dart measure from D on front bust line over 4 inches, and from this point measure 

down to W, 3 inches. 
M to 9 is 6>^ inches. 
9 to 8 is 2 inches. 

From point W at the top of dart measure down to 69, 
From tv measure down to 70, lYi inches. 
Shape dart at bottom of blouse as diagram shows. 
To make garment double breasted measure from 18 to 71, Yi inch. 
71 to 26 is 6 inches. 
From box line to 26 is V/z inches. 
Shape the front from 71 to 26. 

To obtain shawl collar and lapel measure from the deepest point of neck, 21 to 22s, 1 inch. 
Draw a line from the bottom of lapel at 26 through 23 to 24. 
32 to 21 is 2j4 inches, Y^ inch more than back neck measure, A O. 
Square over on line 24, 26. 1^4 inches to 2,^, standing band, and over to 35. 
3.'i to 36 is 34 inch for spring. 
Shape the back line of collar from 25, 24, 21 to 36. 
Shape collar and lapel as diagram shows. 

Place a separate piece of paper under collar and trace out according to shape of collar. 
To trace lapel, break on line 26, 24. turn the paper under and trace out the shape of lapel, which 

will be reversed on opposite side. 

TO MAKE SKIRT. 
Draw line from 6 to 8, which is !4 of luist measure, 9^/2 inches plus K' 'nch. which is 10. 
Square up on line 6. 8 to 9, which is Y% of bust measure, 4y4 inches plus 1J4 inches, which is 

6J4 inches. 
8 to 7 is 3 inches, and shape waist from 9 through 7 to 6. 
Measure from 6, 7 and 9, 12^' inches, J4 of waist measure. 
What remains over is eased in at the waist line. 
Measure down from waist line to dotted line 4 inches to 14, 15. 
Measure 14, 15 — 20t inches, ;4 of hip measure. 
Come out from front line on hip % of an inch from 14 to 11. 

6 to 17 is 18 inches at front and 9 to 12 at back is 8 inches, and shape bottom as diagram shows. 
Draw front line from 6 to 11 to 13. 

To make inverted pleat measure from 9 to 10, 2 inches at the top of waist line. 
At the bottom 12 to 16, 4 inches. 
To form inverted pleat take up on line 9. 12, and meet center back line, 10, 16. _ 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



83 




Diagram 40 



84 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



TIGHT FITTING JACKET WITH SEPARATE SKIRT. 

Diagram 41 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm 83^ inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hip 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9j/2 — lYz inches 

Across Chest 155^ inches Shoulder Heights Back 8J4 — 6 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height of Waist 7^4 — 15>^ inches 

Length Front of Waist 7 — 17 inches Length of Shoulder 5^4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

For making jacket use exactly the same rules and descriptions used in tight fitting jacket. Dia- 
gram in this instance shows a separate lapel, and is made exactly like the tight fitting 
jacket, with the exception of the shape of collar and lapel. Also notice that jacket is 
cut through from back gore, point L to front of garment point 40, to which separate skirt 
is fastened. 

Skirts Square points ii — 32 from 23. li to 2>1> is 34 of bust measure, 9^^ inches; 23 to 
2>2 is 34 of bust measure plus 1 inch, 5j4 inches. From ZZ to 10 and from 32 to 13 is 
4 inches all around waist, making hip measure. 23 to 31 is 3 inches. Draft waist line 
from Z}> through 31 to 2)1, which is 3<2 of waist measure, less back. J — K. 

10 to 19 is 3-2 inch; draw line down through 19 from ii\ make skirt 8 inches deep and 8 inches 
all around from waist Hne. .^dd plaits on back to correspond with jacket, which com- 
pletes diagram. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTEK FOR WOMEN. 



85 




19(3> 



Diagram 41 



86 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



LOOSE FRONT JACKET WITH TIGHT FITTING VEST. 

Diagram 42. 

MEASURES. 

Bust — - - 38 inches Underarm 8>4 inches 

Waist - •- 2i inches Across Back '. 14 inches 

Hip 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9^^ — ■ 7y2 inches 

Across Chest ISYi inches Shoulder Heights Back 8^ — 6 inches 

Neck 15 inches Length Back to Waist 7^ — ISj/^ inches 

Length Front of Waist 7^ — 17^ inches Length of Shoulder 1 5^ inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Follow tight titting jacket for back, side gores, back gores, and front, then shape gores 

and back to any desired length as diagiam shows. 

Using the center front of the tight fitting jacket, shape vest as diagram shows, about 2 
inches below waist line. The vest in this diagram is the shaded portion of drawing. 

2. Measure for shawl collar 1 inch from deepest point at neck line 23. and draw straight 

line from bottom of front point .^3 through point 40. Now draft line from neck curve 
front line X to 21 upward and make this distance the same length as neck curve back 
A — C), giving point 21. Placing square on line 53 — 2Z, draw a line from 21 through 
point 24 to 25. Draft shawl, starting at point S2> to top of collar (neck back) and draft 
under collar from point 25, touching shawl as diagram shows. 

Break line 24 — 53 by turning paper under and trace shawl toward front as diagram shows. 
Place separate piece of paper under the under collar and trace out according to dia- 
gram. The vest must be traced out the same way by laying paper under front. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



87 



25 24 




Diagram 42 



88 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



LOOSE BACK TIGHT FRONT VEST. 

Diagram 43 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm Syi inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hips 41 inches Shoulder Height Front Dyi — 7l'j inclics 

Across Chest 15>4 inches Shoulder Heights Back- 8^4 — 6 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height of Waist 7% — 15>4 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7^ — 17^^ inches Length of Shoulder 5^ inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 



1. Use Lesson No. 1 for box. 



9 



Shoulder heights and armscye are same as tight fitting vest. 

3, From 5 to 4 is 2 inches, and shape as shown. 
4 to J is 34 waist measure, 6y4 mclies. 

J to E is held in with strap. 

Measure from 5 to 9, 6^4 inches, ^ of waist, distance from 9 — 18 must be taken out i; 
dart 9 — 8 2^4 inches, and shape dart as shown. 

4. Collar is the same as described in diagram 4L 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



89 



25, 



•L 24 



21 



•)A 



•)P 




Diagram 4) 



90 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



TIGHT FITTING VEST. 

Diagram 44 



MEASURES. 



Bust 3S 

Waist - - - 25 

Hips 41 

Across Chest - 15' 

Neck 15 



inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 



Length Front of Waist.... 7>^ — 1/3/2 inches 



Underarm 8J/2 inches 

Across Back .. 14 inches 

Shoulder Heights, Front 93^ — 7^4 inches 

Shoulder Height Back., 6 — 834 inches 

Neck Height and to Waist.. 734 — 1534 inches 

Length of Shoulder 5^ inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 



1. Use Lesson No. 1 for box. 



A to C is 7 inches, length in back; P to C is SJ4 inches, second shoulder height back; square 
A and P on line A — F ; P to R is Gyi inches, 34 width of back. S is about 1 inch from 
R; A to N is 234 inches, which distance changes; C to Y is 234 inches, this distance 
changes 34 inch more or less for respective sizes ; Y to O is 8 inches, first shoulder 
height back. 

H to 3 is 7 inches, second shoulder height front ; G to X is 9 inches, first shoulder height 
front ; I is 2 inches from X, this varies according to measure, allowing 34 inch more for 
larger sizes and 34 inch less for smaller sizes. E to J is 1 inch ; connect J with A, and 
shape slightly as shown. 

Draft line A — O. Connect O with S. 3 to line X is same distance as O — S. 

Draft line X — 27. 

.\rmscye for vest is always 1 inch larger all around than the regular jacket. The dotted 
line shows the jacket and the heavy line all around it the vest armscye. 

J to K is 334 inches ; K to L is 1 inch ; L to 4 is 2->^ inches : 4 to 5 is 2 inches ; now draft 
gore in back as shown. 

Front and darts are same as tight fitting jacket. 

Allow for button stand % inch. 

Draft bottom to any shape desired. From 27 on neck diagram shows a standing collar. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



91 




Diagram 44 



92 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



EMPIRE JACKET. 

Diagram 45 
MEASURES. 



Underarm Syi 

Across Back 14 

Shoulder Height Front 9>4— 7/2 

Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8}i 

Neck Height and to Waist....7>^ — IS/ inches 
Length of Shoulder Sji inches 



inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 



liust - -58 inches 

Waist 25 inches 

Hip 41 inches 

Across Chest - 15/ inches 

Neck 15 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7^—17/ inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 
Follow same instructions as given in the First and Second Lessons 

Our natural waist line is V. 

Measure from the natural waist line up 2 inclics to E. 

L to J is / inch. 

J to K is 3/ inches. 

K to L is ^ of an inch. 

L to 6 is 5 inches. 

G to 7 is 1 inch. 

Take the center of L — K, which gives us point 5. Square down where line crosses on first hip : 
measure / inch to 10 and / inch to 15. 

Where line crosses on second hip, measure J-4 of an inch to 38 and 1 inch to 39. 

On bust line, Y to [J is 2 inches. 

At back shoulder, O to T is 3 inches and T to S is 2-}i inches. Shape as shown. 

28 to 30 is 6/ inches underarm measure. 

Take the center of 6 and 7, which gives us point 9. Square down , where line crosses first hip, 
measure Ya inch to 14 and }'4 inch to 13. 

Where line crossc-; s.'' -(-nd hip, measure J4. mch to 37 and 1/ inches to 29, and shape a^ shown. 

Measure hip from 8 to 10, 15 to 14, 13 to 33, which is 20/ inches, / of hip measure. 

33 to 18 is 1 inch allowed. This 1 inch is taken out between the dart on hip line, 16 — 17. 

Measure back neck, A — O, 2/ inches. 

Place these 2/ inches oii point 32 at front neck and measure to 27, 15 inches neck measure. 

Draw front line from O through 18 to length of coat. 

27 to D is 7 i inches, the highest point of chest. 

27 to 4 is 16 inches, length front of waist. Draw waist line from 30 to 4. 

At front shoulder, ,32 to jZ2 is 3 inches, the same as back shoulder, O T, 

From Q on front bust line measure 3/ inches to W. 

At waist linefrom the center front line measure 4 inches to 50. 

Take out, between 50 and 51, H of an inch. 

At hip line, from 18 to l7, is 4/ inches. 

17 to 16 is 1 inch. 

At shoulder, from 22 to 20, 2 inches are taken out; these 2 inches we add on point 3, which gives 
us point 19. 

Reshape armscye from 28 through H to 19. 

Shape the two front gores as diagram shows. 

To make garment double breasted, measure from front line, O — 18, 2/ inches, to 26, and for 
buttons measure the same distance back from front line, — 18. Mark buttons as dia- 
gram shows. Cut garment bias. 

In order to have garment without a seam from the waist line down, lay the front part of garment 
together at point 50 to 51 and cut in one, as shown in the illustration. 

To obtain collar and lapel, measure from the deepest point of neck, 31 to 23, 1 inch. 

Draw a line from the bottom of lapel at 26 through 23 to 24. 

32 to 21 is 2-K inches, or }4 inch more than the neck measure, A — O. 

Square over on line 24 — 26 1/ inches to 25 for .standing band, and over to 35 any desired width 
for collar. 35 to 36 is / inch spring for collar. 

Shape back of collar from 25 — 24, 21 to 36. 

Shape the colar and lapel as diagram shows. 

Place a separate piece of paper under collar and trace out collar according to shape. 

To trace lapel, break on line 26 — 24, turn paper under and trace out shape of lapel, which will 
be reversed on the opposite side. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



9) 




Diagram 45 



94 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOW TO MAKE NORFOLK JACKET FROM BLOCK PATTERN 

Diagram 46 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Use a block pattern, cut the box pleat any desired width, in this case 2 inches wide when finished. 

To make back box pleat, draw straight line the length of coat, which is 2 — 19. 

Allow 2 inches, which gives us points 3 — 18. For under pleat allow at top from 3 to 4, and 
2 to 1 is 1 inch. At bottom, from 19 to 20 and 18 to 17, 1 inch. This forms the under 
pleat by creasing on line 3 — 18 and 2 — 19, turn under and stitch together 1 — A — 17 — 20 
to the seam of coat. 

Draft front box pleat from the front of block pattern. 22 to 33 is 1 inch ; 33 to 6 is 2 inches ; 
, 6 to 5 is 1 inch. At bottom, 14 to B is 1 inch; 14 to 15 is 2 inches; 15 to 16 is 1 inch. 
Form the front pleat the same as back pleat. 

To make belt, measure the distance from 39 to 38 — 37 to 34, which is the same distance from 11 
to 9 and 12 to 10. Square over on line 9 — 10 to front of coat, from this point allow 
yi inch to 7, and IJ^ inches to 8. Shape belt as diagram shows. 

For front collar and lapel, follow same instructions as given in diagram 19. page 42. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



95 




96 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



NORFOLK JACKET 

Diagram 47 



MEASURES. 



Bust 38 

Waist 25 

Hip 41 



inches 
inches 
inches 



Across Chest 155^ inches 

Neck 15 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7 — 17 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 



Underarm Syi inches 

Across Back 14 inches 

Shoulder Height Front 9>^— /^^ inches 

Shoulder Height Back 8>4 — 6 inches 

Neck Height and to Waist....7>4 — ISj^ inches 

Length of Shoulder SH inches 



For complete box follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. 

On back bust line from C to LI is 4 inches, LT to T is 2 inches. 

At waist line in back, from E to J K^ inch. Draw line from A through J to full length. 

J to K, 3 inches. 

K to L, }i inch. 

L to 5, 2 inches. 

5 to 49, % inch. 

49 to 7, 4 inches. 

7 to 6, -H inch. 

Take center of L K, square down where this line crosses on 

hip, measure .>4 inch to 15 for back part. For second 

gore in back, square up and down from points 5 — L. 

For third gore in back, measure from point 48 on hip M 

inch to 10. 

Take center of 6 — 7, square up and down where this line crosses 
on hip, measure ->^ inch to 14 and ji inch to 13; 28 to 53 
is Syi inches, length of underarm. 

Draw new waist line from L to 53. Shape gores as shown. 

To draft back yoke, measure from C on back bust line 1 inch 
to 55. 

Fake center of second gore on bust line, measure J/ inch down 
to 54. Point 29 is ^4 inch above bust line. Shape yoke 
from 55 through U-54 — T — 29. Measure hip from 56 tr 
15, 47 to 48, 10 to 14 ; 13 to !<7 is yi of hip measure, 20/ 
inches. From this point allow 1/ inches to 58, which is 
taken out between the two front darts at waist and hip 
line. Draw front line from O through 58 to 20. 



From 27 to M is 17 inches, length of waist in front, 
waist line from 53 to M. 



Draw new 




From Q on front bust line measure 3j/2 inches to W, and W to 

V is 2 inches. Square down points W and V to full length. 
Measure from W to 17, 3 inches, and from V to 16, 2/ inches for height of darts. 
At front waist line from 37 to 9 is J4 incli taken out ; 38 to 8 is I inch taken out, same distance 

on hip. Shape gores as shown. 
To draft front yoke, measure from 4 on bust line, / inch to 3, and re-shape armscye from 3 to 2. 

Shape yoke from 3 througli V — W to 34. 
For double breasted collar and lapel follow same instructions as given in diagram 19, page 42. 
Cut yoke from shoulder to bust line as shown in own in blouse shirt waist diagram. 
diagram 81, page 16 0. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR W OMEN. 
26 



97 




18 20 



Diagram 47 



98 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



TO DRAFT NEW SLEEVE FOR DROP SHOULDER. 

Diagram 48 

MEASURES. 

Half of Back / inches To Elbow 19>4 inches 

Full Length 29'/2 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

A to I is 7 inches across back; A to L is 19>i inches, elbow length; A to B is 29>^ inches, full 
length: I to D is ^ of bust measure, less 1 inch, 3^ inches; I to M is 2 inches. 

Square over all the given points on line A — B. 

I to R is >it bust measure, 9 inches. 

Square R to H. M to N is ji of bust, 43/2 inches. N to O is 1>^ inches. 

Q to P is >4 inch ; T to R is 1 inch ; R to W is >^ of bust measure ; H to G is 1 inch. K is the 
center of H — B. K to J is >4 inch. 

Draw line from G to E. G to V is 3 inches. G to E is 6 inches. 

Shape sleeve as shown. 

The distance we allowed on shoulder from 43 to 4 and S to 9 is taken off from the top of sleeve. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



99 



A 





Diagram 48 



100 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOM:i:N. 

SEMI-FITTING COAT. WITH VEST AND DROP SHOULDER. 

Diagram 49 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Underarm Syi inches 

Waist 25 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Hips 41 inches Shoulder Heights Front. . . .g]^ — 7J/2 inches 

Across Chest 15J/2 inches Shoulder Height Back 6 — • 8^ inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height and to Waist. .y}4 — 15J/2 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7^4— 17'/4 inches Length of Shoulder 534 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. 

At waist line E to J is ^ inch ; I to K is 4 inches ; K to L is -K inch ; L to 6 is 4^4 inches ; 6 to 

7 is 1 inch. 
Draw back line A through J to B. 
Take center of L — K which is 11, square down from this point where line crosses on hip, 

measure yi inch to 10 and jf-j inch to 15. 
Take center of 6 — 7, which is 5, square down from this point where line crosses on hip. measure 

}i inch to 14 and H inch to 13. Measure from 28 to 19 — 8>4 inches length of under- 
arm. 
Draw new waist line from L to 19. Shape as shown. 

At shoulder S to 38 is 354 inches; R to U is 1>4 inches. Square U on line R— I to T, 2 inches. 
Shape back shoulder as shown. 

Measure hip F (o 10, 15 to 14. 13 to 33— ^4 of hip 20j4 inches. 
33 to 18 allow l;4 inches. This 1>4 inches we lose in front dart between 8 — 9 at waist, 17— 

16 at hip line. 
?7 to M is 17 'A inches, length of waist in front. Draw front line Q — M— 18 full length. 
Draw new waist line from 19 to M. 
At waist from M to 9 is 5 inches; 9 to 18 is 1J4 inches. 
At hip 18 to 17 is 5% inches; 17 to 16 is 1^4 inches. 
On bust line H to 40 is 3 inches ; 29 is 2 inches above bust line. Lose ^2 inch from 29 to 30. 

Re-shape arm-scye from 28 to 30. 34 to 3 is 2>4 inches. 
Square point 3, 234 inches to 4. 
Shape shoulders and gores as shown. 
When the front seam of coat is more to the side of coat, it is necessary to place a dart under 

the lapel in order to give more Chest. 
At shoulder 32 to 22 is 1 inch; 22 to 20 is 1^4 inches taken out. This 1^ inches add on point 

34 to 43. 
On bust line Q to W is 2-}4 inches. Shape dart as shown. 
To make garment double breasted, collar and lapel, follow same instructions as given in diagram 

19, page 42, with exception of making a notch collar. 
To draft Vest. Shape the front line from 41 on box line through O to 42. From this line 

measure out 1 inch for lap. Same distance back for buttons. 
Shape vest as shown. 
Connect vest at 20 at shoulder; on front 9 — 17. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WO MEN 
26 



101 




DlAGR.\M 49 



Collars 



Leggins 



Hoods 



104 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



THREE-PIECE STORM COLLAR. 

Diagram 50 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw line A — B 8 inches, J-j of neck measure. A to D is 5!^ inches, and square Hnes lo 

C and B. 

2. Divide Hne A — B into 3 parts, making points J and I, which points square up. 

3. From D to K is Ij^ inches. From Hne J to points E and F respectively is ■}4 inch, and 

from line I to G and H is the same. 

4. Now shape collar as diagram shows. 



CHILD'S TURN DOWN COLLAR 

Diagram 51 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw line 33 — 35, which is 6^ inches neck measure. From 33 to 32 is IVi inches; from 

32 — 30 is 2 inches; go in to 31 '/> inch ; from 35 to 34 is 2 inches, the height of collar. 

Now connect 32 with 35, 31 and 34. 

2. From 34 to 29 is 2yi inches. From 29 to 28 is IJ/jinches. From 30 to 27 is 3 inches, and 

from 26 to 27 is 54 inch. 

Now connect 28 with 26 31 — 32 with 35 — 34 with 28, shape as diagram shows. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



B 




i) 1) @ 



Diagram 50 



10s 




Diagram 51 



106 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



STANDING COLLAR. 

Diagram 52 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw line 19 — 24 16 inches, neck measure, and di\ide into half for point 25. Square point 

up. 

23 to 21 is 4 inches, and square to points 17 — 15. 

2. 21 to 22 is \y2 inches: 24 to 16 is HX inches; 19 to 18 is D/j inches; 17 to 20 is i/4 inch; 

25 — 15 is ^ inch. 

Now connect points, as shown in diagram. 



TURN DOWN COLLAR. 

Diagram 53 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw line 1 — W 8 inches, ^ of neck measure, and square lines up. \V to V is 1>'2 inches; 

1 to Z is 2>4 niches, height of collar. From V to U is 2'/!' inches, and y& inch from 
line W— T. 

2. Connect V with 1 and U with Z and shape, as shown in diagram. 

3. Take center of line L' — Z and measure from Y to X 54 inch, and connect with curve line 

Z—X— u. 

Measure from Z to S 3 inches; S — R is 1% inches; draw line Z — R, which is same dis- 
tance as U — T, and shape collar, as shown in diagram. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



107 




T( 


jjr 












\ 


JC 




S(5 


^ 




u®^r 


**=_ "^ 


/ 




J 


^^^===4^ 






/ 




1 


Y^ 


^^==5: 




)Z 


vf-^ 






1 




W<Tt 








)1 






Diagram 


53 





)R 



108 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOW DOLMAN MEASUREMENTS ARE TAKEN. 

Diagram 54 



MEASURES. 



Bust 38 

Waist 25 

Hips 41 

Across Chest 15^ 



inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 

Neck 15 inches 

Length Front of Waist ... .7J4 — 17^ inches 



Underarm 8J/2 

.\cross Back 14 

Shoulder Heights Front. . . .gyi — 7>2 

•Shoulder Height Back 6 — SJ^ 

Neck Height and to Waist. .7>4 — 15I/2 
Length of Shoulder 5?^ 



nches 
nches 
nches 
nches 
nches 
nches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

First Dolman : Take measure over arms, over fullest part of bust, as drawing shows, 1 — 2. 

Second Dolman : Take measure from center of back, 2 inches above waist to elbow of lady 
standing in an easy pose, 3 — 4. 

Inside elbow to wrist: Take measure from elbow to wrist, 6 — 5. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



109 




110 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



OPERA CLOAK. 

Diagram 55 



MEASURES. 



Bust 38 inches 

Waist 25 inches 

Hips 43 inches 

Across Chest 15 inches 

Neck - 15>2 inches 

1st and 2d Dolman 46 — 10^ inches 



Across Back 13 inches 

Underarm 9 inches 

Shoulder Heights Front 9 — 7 inches 

Shoulder Heights Back 8 — 5^^ inches 

Neck Height to Waist 7 — ISyi inches 

Inside Elbow to Wrist 7J/2 inches 



5. 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line A — B. C is first Dolman (measure overarm at bust). 

C to A is 7 inches, length in back: E is waist; A to E is ISyi inches: F and IS. first and 

second hip measure, 4 inches. 
Square line C — E — F — B on line A — B. 
C — D is 23 inches first Dolman; D to (J is >!> inch allowance for breathing. Divide 19 

inches, 5/2 of bust measure, into quarters, which is 4-54 inches, and measure off from D 

to G. 
From G to H measure oif' Ys of 19 inches plus 1>2 inches; namely. 3j,s inches. 
From C to I is 63/2 inches across back measure. Find center of I and H, which is point 7. 

Draw line up on 7 to T, which is '4 of ^ bust measure plus 1 inch; namely, S-}4 inches. 

Draw lines on H and D up and down, and up on I and G. 
E to J is 1 inch. Draw line from J through C to M ; M to C is 7 inches, length in back. 

C to P is 6 inches, second shoulder height back, and square off on line M — J. 
Measure from M to N lyi inches. 
From P to R is G'/z inches, width of back ; Y to O is 8 inches, second shoulder height m 

back ; R to I is 5% inches, first shoulder height in back. 
From P to R is 6v, inches, width of back; Y to O is 834 inches, second shoulder height in 

back ; R to I is 6 inches, first shoulder height in back. 
From H to 3 is 7% inches, first shoulder height in front. 
G to X is 9 inches, second shoulder height in front. 

X to 1 is 2 inches. This varies according to size, more for larger, less for smaller sizes. 
Square point 1 to point 27 and intersect line at 3. 
Point W is 1 inch above bust line and 2 inches from line I ; from line H is the same as 

point 4. Now connect M — O — R — W — and ^V — T — 4 to line 3. 
X to line 3 is same distance as O to R. Draft neck curve front X — 27. 
Hip measure is 21 -4 inches; half of 2l}4 is 10?^ inches; measure this from 17 to 18. 
Now draft front line 27 — O — 18 to 47. which is length of garment. This is a perfectly 

straight line. 
Tn order to get length of garment in back, measure from M to 40, 58 inches, and square on 

line A — B as diagram shows. 
In order to get the minimum fullness of garment at bottom multiply bust measure, 19 inches. 

by 2%. which gives 42^4 inches: measure this from 47 to 48. 
Now draft a nicely shaped line from J to 48 as shown. 
Sweep at bottom 48 to 27 is slightly curved. This completes garment. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



Ill 




Diagram 55 



112 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



ULSTER WITH DOLMAN SLEEVE. 



DiAGUAM S6 



MEASURES. 



Bust 38 inches 

Waist 25 inches 

Hips 43 inches 

Across Chest 15 inches 

Neck 15yj inches 

L^ength Waist in Front ..-. 8 — 18 inches 



Shoulder Heights Front 9 — 7 inches 

Shoulder Heights Back 8 — 5'k; inches 

Neck Height to Waist-.. 7 — 15J4 inches 

.\cross Back 13 inches 

Underarm 9 inches 

1st and 2d Dohiian 46 — 10'/2 inches 



Inside Elbow to Wrist 7^4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Use same construction lines as on Opera Cloak on previous page. 

For back part follow diagram 58, page 115, with the exception from J toK, which is 2 
inches, and draw line up from K to S. This is called Dolman back. 

A to 49 is 58 inches, full length of garment. For plaits in back follow our diagram. 

2. The first Dolman is 23 inches : use this measure to get point Z, by placing your measure 

at D and measure to Z. less 6^2 inches across back measure. Find center of H — Z, 
namely 7, and go up to T, which is % of bust plus 1 inch. 5*_( inches. Z to 2 is same 
distance as W — I. 



4 is 1>4 inches above bust line and l'-^ inches from line H. The shoulder height and neck 
front are same as in diagram 58, page 115. Front line is same as Opera Cloak lesson. 

Second Dolman is always 2 inches alcove waist line point 26. Second Dolman measure is 
103^ inches; 26 to 6 is lOyi inches, less back 19 — 16. Now connect 6 — 2 — T — 4 and to 
line 3. 



From 6 draw line to 48, which is 2y2 times 19 inches bust measure, 
diagram for plaits on this line, same as on back. 

Sweep same in previous lesson, Ulster No. 1, diagram 68, page 136. 



less bac'v. Follow 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



113 




Diagram 56 



114 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



FICHU NO. 3. 

Diagram 57 

MEASURES. 



Bust 38 

Waist 25 

Hips 43 

Across Chest 15 

Neck \5y2 

Length Waist in Front 8 — 18 



inches Shoulder Heights Front 9 — 7 inches 

inches Shoulder Heights Back 8 — 5^ inches 

inches Neck Height of Waist 7 — 15^ inches 

inches Across Back 13 inches 

inches Underarm 9 inches 

inches 1st and 2d Dolman 46 — lOyi inches 



Inside Elbow to Wrist 7^^ inches 



1. 
2. 



INSTRUCTIONS. 



Follow instructions as in Opera Cloak Lesson No. 1, with exception of fohowing points: 

on front 



A to C is straight ; E to J is -}4 inch, and shape back as shown. 
2 to Z is 3 inches, and shape bottom of Fichu as shown from F through Z to 
line, or any desired shape. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



115 




Diagram 57 



116 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOM.i:N. 



FICHU NO. 4. 

Diagram 58 

MEASURES. 



Bust 38 inches 

Waist 25 inches 

Hips 43 inches 

Across Chest 15 inches 

Neck 15^ inches 

Length Waist in Front 8 — 18 inches 



Shoulder Height Front 9 — 7 inches 

Shoulder Heights Back 8 — 5^ inches 

Neck Height of Waist 7 - 15>4 inches 

Across Back 13 inches 

Underarm 9 inches 

1st and 2d Dolman 46 — lOyi inches 



Inside Elbow to Wrist 7>2 inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Follow instructions of Dolman No. 2. 

2. For plaits follow our diagram closely. 

3. Curve from E to Z, which is 3 inches above waist line, same as Fichu No. 3, with the 

difference of shape in front. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN li7 




Diagram 58 



118 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DOLMAN NO. 5. 

Diagram 59 

MEASURES. 

JBust 38 inches Shoulder Heights Front 9 — 7 inches 

Waist 25 inches Shoulder Heights Back 8 — 5-)'4 inches 

Hips 43 inches Neck Height to Waist 7 — 15>^ inches 

Across Chest - 15 inches Across Back 13 inches 

Neck \SYi inches Underarm 9 inches 

Length Waist in Front 8 — 18 inches 1st and 2d Dolman 46 — 10^ inches 

Inside Elbow to Wrist 7^ inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Follow instructions of Dolman No. 2 for construction lines back and front. Measure hip 

the same to obtain 18. 

Now measure D to H on bust line, which in this case is 8? s inches ; deduct this from Dol- 
man 23 inches, and measure balance, 14% inches, from C to Z on bust line. Divide Z 
and I into half for point 7 and go up to T 5-)4 inches, which is ^ of bust plus 1 inch ; 
go down from 7 to 26 to 2 inches above waist line, giving second Dolman point. 

2. Draw second Dolman line from 26 to 16. Measure 16 — 19 width of back 2 inches ; 10>^ 

inches, second Dolman, minus 2 inches leaves 8j/2 inches, which is measured from 26 to 
point 6. From H to 4 is a loss of 1 inch ; this inch is made up by going from Z to 35 
toward front. 

Inside sleeve from elbow to wrist is 73/2 inches; this is measured from 36 to U, the same 
from 2 to V. U to L is a straight line down ; L to 13 is 1 inch. Now connect line U — 13 
and 15. From U to 15 is 16 inches, length of sleeve. 

Now draft curve, starting at 6 to W through T — 35 and U. From 6 to S is a slight curve 
backwards. Connect S with 15 as shown. 

Now connect V with 47 as shown, and V- -4 up to shoulder front. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



119 




Diagram 59 



120 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DOLMAN NO. 6. 

Diagram 6o 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Shoulder Height Front 9 — • 7 inches 

Waist 25 inches Shoulder Height Back 8 — 5^ inches 

Hips 43 inches Neck Height to Waist 7 — 15^^ inches 

Across Chest 15 inches Across Back 13 inches 

Neck 15^4 inches Underarm 9 inches 

Length Waist in Front 8 — 18 inches 1st and 2d Dolman 46 — lOyi inches 

Inside Elbow to Wrist 7^ inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Follow instructions of Dolman No. 5 and note the change of back. E to J is 1 inch. Point 

W is IJ^ inches from line R — I and bust line. 

2. From 35 to 11 is ^4 inch; now draw line 11 — 30 to 13; 30 is 10 inches from V. 17 to V 

is 2y2 inches. Now connect points 3 — A — V — 16 — 10 — 47, as diagram shows. 

3. Place separate piece of paper under sleeve and trace 13 — 10 — 11 to U. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 121 




Diagram 60 



122 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DOLMAN NO. 7. 

Diagram 6 1 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Shoulder Heights Front 9 — 7 inches 

Waist 25 inches Shoulder Heights Back 8 — S-H inches 

Hips 43 inches Neck Height to Waist 7 — 15>^ inches 

Across Chest 15 inches Across Back 13 inches 

Neck 153^ inches Underarm 9 inches 

Length Waist in Front 8 — 18 inches 1st and 2d Dolman 46 — 10,'/. inches 

Inside Elbow to Wrist 7^^ inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Follow instructions of Dolman No. 5 for back and front, with exception of following: 

2. 35 to 11 is 34 of an inch. Point 41 is halt way between waist and hip line. For under 

sleeve connect line 41 and 11. The V shapes are 1 inch between 21 — 40 and 34 — 22, and 
are 5 inches deep to points 30 — 29. 

Now break hip line 13 — 10 and turn under, and trace 10 to 41 — 22 to 30 — 3-1 — 40 — 29 — 
21— 11— U— 13. 

18 to V is hip measure less back, nameiy. 21'/^ inches. 

V to 15 is 2 inches. Now conect 3 — ^1 — 15 and 15 with 39. Take out 2 darts in V shape, 
1 inch between 42 — 37 and 28 — 23, making them 5 inches deep to points 38 — 25. Now 
shape line 39 — 47 as diagram shows. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



123 




Diagram 61 



\24 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DOLMAN NO. 8. 

Diagram 62 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Shoulder Heights Back 8 — 5^ inches 

Waist 25 inches Neck Height to Waist ?■ — ISyi inches 

Hips 43 inches Across Back 13 inches 

Across Chest 15 inches Underarm 9 inches 

Neck 15^ inches Underarm 9 inches 

Length Waist in Front 8 — 18 inches 1st and 2d Dolman 46 — lOyi inches 

Inside Elbow to Wrist 7^2 inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Follow instructions of Dolman No. 7 for back with the following exceptions: 

8 to 45 is 2 inches. 45 to 41 is 1 inch. Connect 45 with 11 and take out 2 Vs, same as 
Dolman No. 7. 

L to 13 is 1 inch, and connect with 23, which is center between waist and hip. Now break 
line 13- — 23 and follow same rules as Dolman No. 7. 

2. D to 43 is bust measure less W — C, width of back plus 1 inch; namely, 15>^ inches. 43 to 

46 is 2 inches down, same as 8 to 45 in back. Connect 46 with 31, going slightly out. 

From 25 to 24 is l^-S inches, and 2 — 29 is also 1 J/ inches. Divide 25 — 24 into half and 
square down; and 2 — 29, and square up and down. 

Now shape gore from 52 to 24—46 — 9 to 39—51 and front 37 to 2 — 9 — 4 — 3. Shape bot- 
tom 37 to 47, following diagram closely. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



125 




Diagram 62 



126 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



CAPE WITH ONE DART. 

(38 inch Bust.) 
Diagram 6} 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw line A — B and square to D. 

• Take jacket pattern, front and back, and place same in square as shown with dotted lines. 

Let C be 8 inches and H 8^2 inches from A, E to F is I3/2 inches at waist, which leaves a 
space of 1 inch between M and N and K inch between L and O. 

L — M — K gives dart on shoulder. 

Use A as a pivot and sweep to any desired length. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



127 




Diagram 63 



128 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



CAPE WITH TWO DARTS. 

(38 inch Bust.) 
Diagram 64 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1 . Use same rule as for previous cape and find center of N and M ; namely, R, and connect 

with a guide line to A. 

2. T and S are lyi inches from R. 

P and L is J4 inch from Y. Square Y on Une A — R. Do same with point R. For darts 
connect O — T— L — P — K to 27. Use A as a pivot and sweep to any desired length. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



129 




Diagram 64 



!50 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



COACHMAN'S FUR CAPE. 

DiAt;KAM 65 

MEASURES. 
Rust - 38 inches First Dolman 4() inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. For box, use same rule as our loose front jacket No. 1, only making it to the waist line. 

Draft shoulders, neck curves, at front and back, same as Lesson No. 2. 

2. From front shoulder take '2 inch off and allow this on back shoulder, as shown. This is 

to bring shoulder seam right in center of shoulder. From I to T is 4 inches : increase or 
decrease this distance J/j incli for respective sizes. Now draft line from L through S 
and T and slightly toward front to K ; this completes back. 

Measure distance T to C, which in this case is 10 inches, and place this 10 inches on front 
point D, and measure Dolman 2.i inches, giving point S. Now draft line from \ 
through 2. through 8 and slightly toward back to W. Tliis completes diagram. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



131 




Diagram 65 



!32 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOM i:N 



HOW TO GRADE MONTE CARLO OR LOOSE BOX COAT 



Diagram 66 



FRONT— FIGURE 1. 

To grade from 36 to 38 bust : 

Your heavy line in this diagram shov\s your 36 bust, FRONT PART. 

Mark out your front A, B and C, then raise your shoulder 3-16 of an inch to obtain your 3S 
shoulder, G, R, H and T. 

After this has been done, move your front ys of an inch over (parallel with front) half way 
between 3 and 4, and grade your dart R, I, H. 

Then move your front % of an inch again over to point 4 (parallel with front) to obtain arm- 
scye, 10 — T. 

Bring your pattern down to original shoulder, keeping front on point 4, and continue arniscy., 
10 to Z. 

Underarm seam is graded yi inch from O to Z, straight down to K and Y. 

To grade down from 36 to 34, use the same instructions as above, only grading down, using 
the same measurements. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN 



133 




Diagram 66 



1}4 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



MONTE CARLO OR LOOSE BOX COAT. 

{Continued) 
Diagram 67 

BACK PART— FIGURE 2. 

^'ouI• heavy line in this diagram showi your 36 bust, BACK PART. 

Raise your liack shoulder .i-16 of an inch to line D — E. 

^^ove your pattern over across hack '4 inch from .1 to 4 to oret point 10. 

.'Vfler ohtaininii' this point 10. nio\e your pattern down lo \dur original M> sh(julder. It — T. 
keeping back on |)oint 4 parallel. 

.Vow ccjiinect 10 with E and 10 with P. 

P to (), underarm seam, is 'j inch, straight down to L — K. 

To make back shoulder and neck correspond with your front, take olT ^s inch on shoulder point, 
D — E, and proceed from D- -W, raising W 1-16 inch from B. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



135 




Diagram 67 



136 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



ULSTER NO. 1. 



Diagram 68 



MEASURES. 



Bust . 
Waist 
Hips . 



.38 
..25 

..43 



-\cross Chest 15 



inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 



Neck ; 1 5^ inches 



Across Back 13 inches 

Underarm 9 inches 

Shoulder Heights Front 9 — 7 inches 

Shoulder Heights Back 8 — 5^ inches 

Length Back to Waist 7 — IS'A inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

This draft is made by cutting out any jacket, tight or loose fitting, to the second hip. Then 
draw box, with the exception of shoulder heights, as Lesson No. 1 explains ; after notch- 
ing the pattern at bust line, place notches on bust line of box and straight on line A — B 
as diagram shows ; let point N be 6 inches below waist line and continue gores down 
straight to points S — VV. Continue front line down straight to point V. Also note 
point X, which is 6 inches below waist line. 

To get sweep at bottom of ulster, multiply bust measure 19 inches 2^ times, giving 42^4 
inches, and measure this from V to S, W to B, and whatever is missing to make 42^4 
inches measure 1-3 of remainder from W to T and 2-3 from S to C, and shape straight 
up to gores as diagram shows. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



137 




Diagram 68 



138 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



ULSTER NO. 2. 

Diagram 69 

MEASURES. 

Bust - 38 inches Across Back 13 inches 

Waist 25 inches L'nderarm 9 inches 

Hips 43 inches Shoulder Heights Front 9 — 7 inches 

Across Chest 15 inches Shoulder Heights Back 8 — 5^ inches 

Xeck 1534 inches Length Back to Waist 7 — 1554 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. The two gores in this draft are placed together, leaving back and front alone, l-'ollow the 

same instructions as on Lister No. 1, and note point N to be 6 inches below waist hne. 

2. Figure the sweep the same as Ulster No. 1, being careful always to let 2-3 of remainder of 

sweep go toward 1)ack and 1/3 toward front. Diagram shows same. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



I.i9 




Diagram 69 



140 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



PRINCESS DRESS. 

Diagram 70 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Across Back 13 inches 

Waist 25 inches L'nderarm 9 inches 

Hips ..-, 43 inches Shoulder Heights Front 9 — 7 inches 

Across C/hest 13 inches Shoulder Heights Back 8 — 5j4 inches 

Xeck 15'4 inches Length liack to Waist 7 -15,'/2 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

I he (haft is ah'cady explained in the preceding- lesson, with the exception that back anti l)ack 
gore are separate. A garment of this kind is always cut with a large tlare and a train, 
hut diagram onlv shows little flare. L'sc the same rules in getting sweep as Ulster \o. 1. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



141 




Diagram 70 



142 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOOD NO. 1. 

Diagram 71 

MEASURES. 
Bust 36 iiidies 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line E and B. 

E to 1) and J', to [•' and 1'" id 11 is al\va\s '4 of l)U.st measure. 9 inelies. S(|uare ])oints jusl 
fjiven. wlneli constitute box. 

I 'lace jacket hack and front together as dotted line sliows. and draft neck curve I"", to ('; 
C to A is front of jacket or cape. Xow draft curve 11 through G to .\, as shown: '4 
incli all around this curve is stitclied and cord placed hetweeu to give the desired effect 
u hen wearing hood. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



«43 




Diagram 71 



144 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOOD NO. 2. 

Diagram 72 

MEASURES. 
Bust 36 inches 

1. Top of tliis hood is same as No. 1. willi exception of F to B being '/s of bust, 4j/j inches. 

2. From F to P is 4 inches, and from B to I is Sj/> inches, increase or decrease these distances 

for respective sizes : I to H is 1 inch. Now connect these points with straight line, as 
shown. 

Now draft curve from H through G to A. 



HOOD NO. 3 

Diagram 73 

MEASURES. 

Bust 36 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Follow instructions as No. 2, with exception of following: 

2. B to 1 is 6'/2 inches, and 1 to H is 2 inches ; draft line B to H to line J. as diagram shows. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



14 = 



D(J)- 




E Dg> 




Diagram 72 
No. 2 



Diagram 7^ 

No. ^ 



146 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



KNEE LEGGINGS. 

Diagram 74 

MEASURES. 

Knee 6>4 inches Instep 7 inches 

Calf 7 inches Shoe Length 9 inches 

Ankle 5 inches Full Length .....20 inches 

Calf Length Syi inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw line O — G, which is full length, 20 inches. 
O to X is 5y2 inches, calf length. 

<j to F is 2^ inches, and F to D is 2 inches; these measures never vary. 

2. Square points O, X, D, F and G. 

From D to P is ankle measure, 5 inches; square line up and down from I', giving points 
M and Z. 

Knee measure is 6jX inches from AI to A. L to C is calf measure, 7 inches. 

From G to B go out v^ inch and measure from F to E '4 inch. Shape line from P. through 

E— D— C to A. 

3. Instep from B to J is 7 inches. 

From B to I is 9 inches, shoe lengtii. From Z to H is 1 inch. Draft line from B through 
Q— H to I, and I through J— P— L to M. 

4. N is half distance between () anil M, which square to O, giving button line. 
This completes knee leggings. 



SHOE LEGGINGS. 

Diagram 75 
These leggings are the same as knee leggings, e.xcept that the length is S inches. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



147 




"(e)W 



Diagram 74 



Diagram 75 



Waists 



150 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



WAIST. 
FIRST LESSON. 

DiAGRAiM 76 

MEASURES. 

Bust 3?^ inches Across Back 14 inches 

Waist 25 inches Underarm 8^ inches 

Hips 41 inches Shoulder Heights Front. ■ ■ -9^4 — 7'-^ inches 

Across Chest 15V2 inches Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8J4 inches 

Neck 14 inches Lengtii Back to Waist 7j4~15j/2 inches 

Length Front of Waist. . . .7J4 — 17/^ inches Length of Shoulder ^1/4 inches 

IXSTRI'CTIO.XS. 

I )r;i\\ line A 1 1. 

From .'\ to C is 7'4 inches, neck height in back. 

From A to !■", is 15'_> inches, length of waist in 'hack. 

E to B is 4 inches, the first hip. 

Square over jjoints C, E. B on line .\, B. 

From C to L) is '/i of bust measure plus 1 inch. In this case 20 inches. 

This 1 inch we allowed is lost in cutting out the fiattern. 

D to y is ', J inch allowed for breathing. 

D to G is '4 of Ijust measure, in this case 3 inciies. 

Cj to H is yi, of bust measure plus I'j inches. In this case 4 inciies. 

C to 1 is 7 inches. ' _> of back measure. 

Square point I) and 11, up and down. 

Sf|uare up points G. I on line C, D. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



151 



a 



D 



m- 



H 



# 



A 



^t) 



■i\) 



E 



B 



■^ 



Diagram 76 



l';2 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

WAIST. 
SECOND LESSON. 

SECOND LESSON. 

Diagram n 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches .\cross Back 14 inches 

Waist 25 inches Underarm 8J/2 inches 

Hips 41 inches Shoulder Heights Front 9>4 — JYa, inches 

Across Chest 15J/ inches Shoulder Heights Back 8>4 — 6 inches 

Neck 14 inches Length Back to Waist 7)4 — 15>^ inches 

Length Front of Waist 7)^ — 171^ inches Length of Shoulder 5^ inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

C to Y is 2^ inches. 

C to P is 6 inches, the second shoulder height l)ack. 

Y to O is 834 inches, the first shoulder height back. 

Square over A and P on line A, B. 

In squaring P over point R is found crossing line I. 

R to S is )/2 inch. 

Draft neck, A, O, and draw back shoulder, O, S, .^'4 inches. 

At front, H to 3 is "54 inches, second shoulder height front. 

Square point 3. 

G to X is 9>4 inches, first shoulder height front. 

Square point X over l'< inches, to point 11. 

X to 1 is 2 inches. 

Square over point 1 to 27. 

Draft neck curve from 1 1 to 27. 

Draw front shoulder from 11 to 3, 5;k; inches, the same as brick shoulder. ( ), S. 

Z to 2 is 7)4 inches, y'l of chest mea.sure. 

Draft armscye from S through H, 2 to 3. 

In drafting armscye be very careful not to go inside of line I, R. 

Also do not bring it below the i)ust line. 

It is very important to follow the draft of arni.scye very carefully, and get the shape as near 
as possible as diagram shows, as nothing can be added to an armscye that is too large, 
while a small armscye can easily be made larger. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



153 




E 



4^ 



4) 



B 



Diagram 77 



154 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

TIGHT FITTED LINING FRENCH SEAMS. 

' DiAClKAM 78 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Waist 25 inches Underarm 8j4 inches 

Hips 41 inches .Shoulder Heights Front. . . .9^4 — 7/4 inches 

Across Chest t^V^ inches .Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8^/i inches 

Neck 14 inches Length Backand to Waist. .7^ — 15>4 inches 

Length Front of Waist. . . .7% — ijy2 inches Length of Shoulder 5^ inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in the First and .Second Lessons for Waists. 

Back shoulder, O to T, is 3 inches. 

T to S is 2^ inches. 

At waist line, E to J is lyi inches in all cases. 

J to K is 1J4 inches. 

This measure varies ys inch, according to larger or smaller sizes, where the back is tight fit- 
ting with two gores. 

Waist measure, 25 inches; 34 of same is 6^ inches, v\hicli nuist l)e diviiled into 'j liack and 

two equal gores. 

K to L is 1 inch. 

L to 7 is 7 inches. As we only need -t inches in this case, the other 2j4 inches are taken out in 
two darts of 1% inches each. The remaining 5 inches are to he divided equally into 
two gores of 2J4 inches each. 

L to 4, 23'j inches; 4 to 5, 1% inches; .t to 6, 2>j inches; 6 to 7. IJ^ inches. 

On hip line measure from B to V 1'.4 inches. 

Draw center back line from A through J to \'. 

Take the center of L K, square down where line crosses on hip, measure "4 inch fo 15, }i inch 
to 10. 

Take the center of 4 and 5, square down where line crosses on hip, measure ^4 inch to 75 and 
• ^ inch to 74. 

Take the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down where line crosses on hip, measure A4 
inch to 13 and 34 inch to 14. 

28 to 30 is 834 inches length of underarm measure. 

Draw new waist line from L to 30. .Shape gores as shown. 

Measure back neck. A O, which is 2'/2 inches, place these 2^4 inches on front neck at point M. 
measure to 27, which is 14 inches neck measure. 

27 to Q is 7v inches, the highest point of chest. 

27 to M is 17j4 inches, length waist in front. 

Draw front line from M through O to 27 and down from M to IS slightly shaped to 71. 

Draw new waist line from 30 to M. 

Place the Gy^l inches which is J4 of waist measure in liack on point 30. measure over 12^/2 
inches, which is '4 of waist measure plus '4 inch, which gives us point 9. 

9 to M is 2}i inches. 

These 2]/; inches more than the natural waist measure are taken out in front dart between 9 
and 8. 

At front shoulder 32 to 22 is 3 inches, the same as back shoulder O to T. 

22 to 20 is 2 inches taken out. These 2 inches we add on point 3, which gives us point \^. 

20 to 19 is 2-54 inches, the .same as back shoulder T S. 

Reshajje arm-scye from 28 through li to 19. 

At front bust line D to W is 3-f4 inches. 

.Shape the front as diagram shows. 

After the two front gores have been cut out, lay pattern together at points 22 — 20, allowing ^4 
inch raise at top, as shown by the dotted line points 32 — 22 — 20 to 40. Shape the bot- 
tom of waist as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 1S5 




Diagram 78 



1S6 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

TIGHT LINING WAIST WITH ONE GORE. 

Diagram 79 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Across Bade 14 inches 

Waist 25 inches L'nderarm 8^ inches 

Hips 41 inches Shoulder Heights Front. . . .pj^ — 7}4 inches 

Across Chest isV^ inches Length Back to Waist 7 x 15^ inches 

Neck : 14 inches Shoulder Heights Back: 8J4 — 6 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7'/^ — I7yi inches Shoulder 5% inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

P'olovv same instructions as given in first and second lessons for Waists. 

At waist E to J is 1_^2 inches; J to 4 is S'^ inches; 4 to .^ is I34 inches; 5 to 6 is 3 inches; 6 to 7 

is 2 inches. 

The distance between J — 4 and 5 — 6 is ^ of waist measure. 

Take center of 4 — 5 and square down. 

Take center 6 — 7 square up and down. 

28 to 24 is 8^ inches length of underarm. 

Draw new waist line from 5 to 24; B to F is 1 inch. 

Draw back line from F — J to A. 

S to T at shoulder is 43^ inches. 

Shape two back gores as shown. 

From 27 on neck to D is 7^ inches, highest point of chest, down to 34 is Wyi inches, length 
front of waist. 

Draw new waist line from 24 to 34. 

At waist in front 34 to 13 is )4 inch. 

Draw front line from 13 — O to 27 slightly shaped to 29. Measure from 7 to 21, }i of waist 

measure, 6^4 inches plus jA inch to V. From \ to front line is 2j-'4 inches which is taken 
out in front dart 22 — 23. 

From (J on bust line to 15 is 3f^ inches. From this point down to 35 is 3 inches, square down 
tliis i)oint, take out each side of line to 22 — 1^4, inches and to 23 — l^. 

.Shape dart and bottom as shown. 

.\t shoulder 11 to 12 is 2 inches; 12 to 14 is 2 inches taken out. These 2 inches we add on 
jioint 3 which gives us point 31. Reshajje armscye from 28 to 31. 

I'oint lO is 1'/. inches below 15. Shape dart as shown. 

It is necessary in all linings and shirt waists to take a dart out (.11 shoulder. Then place dart to- 
gether at points X — 14 down to 35, and cut over new front. The dart at bottom between 
30 — 33 will increase as shown in blouse shirt waist. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



157 



U X 




Diagram 79 



158 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



TIGHT-FITTING TWO PIECE LINING. 

Diagram 80 

MEASURES. 

Bu.st 38 iiK-hes Across Rack 14 inches 

Waist 25 inches L'nderarm 8>4 inches 

Hips 41 inches Shoulder Heights Front 9>4 — 7]/^ inches 

Across Chesi 1314 inches .Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8>4 inches 

^'eck 14 inches Length of Back to Waist 7J4 — 15^ inches 

Length Front of Waist 714—171^ inches Length of Shoulder 5% inches 

LMSTRL'CTIONS. 

I'ollow same instructions as gi\cn in first and second lessons for waists. 

.\t waist line E to J is l^i, inches; J to 6 is ,s inches; 6 to 7 is 3 inches. 

.\l bottom B to F is 1 inch. 

Draw back line from F. J to A. 

Take center of 6 — 7, square down, from this line to 18 is '4 inch and to 17 is 1 inch. T to 7 

is 83/' inches, length of underarm. 

I)raw new waist line from J to 10. 

Shai)c back gore as shown. 

At neck 27 to D is 7J4 inches. Highest point of chest, to 4 is 17^2 inches, length of waist front. 

Draw new^waist line from 10 to 4. From 4 to 13 is y, inch. Shape front line from 13 — Q 
to 27 slightly shaped to 29. 

Measure waist from J to 6 which is 5 inches. Place the 5 inches on point 7. Measure over 
to point 21 which is !^ of waist 12J/ inches, plus y'l inch to V. From X to front line 
is 2-54 inches which is taken out in front dart, between .^ — 8. 

' >n bust line from U to 15 is 3->4 inches. From this point down to 19 is 3 inches. 

Square down from this point, measure from this line to .s, l-j/g inches and to 8. \yi inches. 

Shape dart and l)ottom as shown. 

Follow same instructions for the dart m shoulder as given in diagram 79, page 156 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



15^1 



11 X 




Diagram 80 



160 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



BLOUSE SHIRT WAIST. 

Diagram 81 

MEASURES. 



Bust 38 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Waist 25 inches Underarm Syi inches 

Hips 41 inches Shoulder Height Front -9% — 7% inches 

Across Chest 153/2 inches Shoulder Height Back 6 — - 8J4 inches 

Neck 14 inches Xeck Height and to Waist. .y% — 15^^ 



nches 



Length Front of Waist. . . .7J4 — 17/^ inches Length of Shoulder 5^ inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in first and second lessons for waists. 

At waist line E to J is 1 inch. 

Draw straight line from A to J to F; J to 6 is 5y2 inches; 6 to 7 is 3 inches. 

On bust line I to T is 1>4 inches; T to 21 is Syi inches, length of underarm. 

Draw new waist line from J to 21. 

Take center of 7 — 6 which is point 5, square down. Draw line from 5 to 'P. From this line to 
17 is -34 inch; to 18 is -H inch. 

Shape back gore as shown. 

Take center of 17 — ¥ set in a triangle, which gi\es n)ore spring on hip as shown, from 14 to 16 
up to 15. 

i'roni 27 to D is 734 inches, highest point of chest, down Id 13 is Uy'j inches to length of waist 
in front. 

I)raw new waist line from 21 to 13. 

Draw front line from 27— O— 13 to 29. 

Shape bottom as shown. 

At shoulder take out a 2 inch dart between 12 — 10 down to 8. Add the 2 inches on point 3 
which gives us point 31. Reshape armscye from H to 31, the same instruction as given 
in diagram 79. page 156. Cut through on the straight line from 20 to 8. Lay dart together 
at point 12 — 10 to 8, make new pattern where we gain 234 inches in the front of waist 
from 14 to 15 in following lesson. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



161 




Diagram 81 



162 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



COMPLETE FRONT OF SHIRT WAIST 

Diagram 82 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Showing how to cut a new waist pattern by laying the dart together at Shoulder, points 6 — 17 and 
where we gain the 23-4 inches more fullness at bottom of waist from 14 to 15. 

How to apply or make a box pleat on the front of a blouse waist. 

Measure from front line 4 — 11 over 1 inch to 3 — 10. From 3 to 2 and 10 to 9 is 2 inches. For 
the width of pleat 2 to 1 and 9 to 8 is 1 inch. To form pleat stitch together on lines 1 — 8 
and 4 — 11. Open pleat and press on lines, 2 — 9 and 3 — 10 which will be a 2 inch pleat 
when finished. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



163 




Diagram 82 



!64 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMii^N 



TURN-OVER COLLAR. 
SHOWN IN ILLUSTRATION. 

(ON PAGE 163) 
Diagram 83 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line B D 14 inches, neck measure. L is center of B D. Square up points B L D. L to 
K is i^ inch; K to I is 1>^ inches, same as D to H — B to J. for under standing collar. 

J— 1— H is break line for the turn over collar. I toGis lYz inches, same as J to A and H to C. 
C to E and A to F is >4 inch. 

."^hape collar as shown. Illustration of collar on page 16). 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN 



16"; 




Diagram 83 



166 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



BISHOP SLEEVE. 

Dia(;kam 84 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line A — B. A to J is 4^4 inches, y» of bust measure. J to D is ^/i of bust measuie, ^ 
inches. D to B is J4 of bust measure, 9 inches. Square over ail given points. 

A to E is 16 inches, 2 inches less than Vj of b;i?t measure. Square rlovn E to K. 

This completes box for sleeve. 

Take center of K — B, which gives us point T. Square down T to M 3 inches. D to Q and P 
to G is 'A inch ; X to P and J to C is i inch ; u is J^ the distance of A — E. 

Square up O to N i inch. A to F is 2!4 inches; E to I is ^A inches. 

Shape sleeve as shown. 



TIGHT LINING SLEEVE. 

DlAUR.\M (S5 

MEASURES. 

Hqlf of Back 7 inches To Elbow I93/2 inchej 

Full Length 29>1 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

From A to M is ■/j of back measure. 7 inches ; .\ to L is 19y.. inches to elbow ; A to B is 29'^ 
inches to wrist ; M to F is ^ of bust measure, 4V2 inches: F to D is 1 inch. Square over 
all given points. M to S is '4 "f ''I'^t measure, '* inches. Squ;ire down to 11. This com- 
pletes box for sleeve. 

D to I is 2 inches. Square over I to X, 4/2 inches. X is v_, the distance of M — S. Square N 
up to O, I inch. S to L is 2 inches: O to i' is jA inch: T to R is 1 inch: R lO W is % 
of bust measure, 4'/2 inches: L to C is 1 inc.). Take center of 1], II, which gives us K. 

G to \' is 3 inches; G to E is 5 inches. Draw uch. Draw line G — F. 

Square down K J^ inch down to J ; H to G is 1 inch. Draw line G — J. 

completes undersleeve. 
'ihape top sleeve from G. *R, *P, *L, *0. '=1, *C. *E. This completes top sleeve. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN 



167 




* 

X 



,m~ 



a w p fa 




In 

00 



u 

< 

Q 



168 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

TIGHT FITTING PRINCESS FOUR PIECES. 

Diagram 86 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Waist 25 inches Underarm 8^/2 inches 

Hip 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9/4 — 7 ]4 inches 

Across Chest 15J/2 inches Shoulder Heights Back 8}i — 6 inches 

Neck 14 inches Neck Height of Waist 7^ — 15^ inches 

Length Front Waist Ty^—l?^/^ inches Length of Shoulder 5^4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons for waists. 

.■\t waist line, E to J is 1 inch. 

J to 7 is 10 inches. In this case we only need Oj/j inches, which is "4 of 26 waist measure. The 

other 434 inches more than needed are taken out between the two darts at back. 
Measure waist from J K which is 2^ inches. 
K to L is ly4 inches ; L to 6 is 3->4 inches; 6 to 7 is 2^4 inches :. 
J to K and L to 6 is 6>2 inches, J4 of waist measure in back. 

Draw center back line from A through J \' to 89, which is 56 inches, the full length of garment. 
The back is cut on the fold of material. 
Take the center of L K, where the line crosses on first hip. measure 1 inch to \5. and 's inch 

to 10. 
Un second hip, where line crosses, measure 2 inches to 44 and Ji inch to 4,v 
Continue line from 44 to 79, from 43 to 88. 

Square the center of 6 and 7, square up to 28 and down to full length. 
Where line crosses on first hip measure, 1- inches to 13 and y'^ inch to 14. 
On second hip where line crosses measure 2j^ inches to 81 and l^A inches to 80. 
Continue line down from 81 to 90 and 80 to 87. 
Back shoulder, O to T, is 3 inches. 
T to S is Zji inches. 

28 to 30 is Syi inches underarm measure. 
Draw a new waist line from L to 30. 
Shape back and .side gore as diagram shows. 

.\t hip, measure from V to 10, 15 to 14 and 13 to 33, which is 20>2 inches, >^ of hip measure. 
33 to 18 is Zy^ inches. These 2^2 inches are taken out at the front dart at hip line between lb 

and 17. 
Measure back neck curve A O, which is 2^ inches. 

Place these 2^2 inches at the front neck on point 32, measure to 27, 15 inches. 
Now draw center front line from 27 through O 18 to 71 full length of garment. 
27 to Q is 7 >^ inches, the highest point of chest. 27 to M is 17}^ inches, length front of waist. 
Draw new waist line from 30 to M. 

Measure over 13 inches, which gives us point 9, which is ^> of waist measure. 
Place the 6>4 inches, which is % of waist measure, in back at point 30. 
9 to M is Zyi inches, these 2^ inches are taken out in the front dart between and 8, 
D to W on front bust line is 3^ inches, 32 to 22 is 3 inches, 
Front shoulder the same as back shoulder O to T. 
22 to 20 is 2 inches taken out. 

These 2 inches we add on point 3, which gives us point 19. 
Reshape armscye from 28 through H to 19. 
Shape the front as diagram shows. 
Now cut out the two front gores, lay pattern together at point W at bust line, and meet the two 

points on shoulder, 22 and 20. 
At neck point 32 raise }i inch. 
Point 3 remains the same. 
Draw new shoulder from 32 through 3 to 40. 
The front is cut on the fold of material. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



169 




|JlACK,V.U So 



170 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



BLOUSE WAIST, DROP SHOULDER. 

Diagram ii? 



MEASURES. 



Bust -^H inclie^ 

Waist - -3 iin-bes 

Hips 41 indies 

Across Chest 13'.. inches 

Neck 14 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7^ — 17,V2 inches 



Across iiack 14 inches 

I'nder Arm Sy^ inches 

Shoulder Height Front 9'/$ — ■ 7j-j inches 

Shoulder Height, Hack 8j4 — 6 inches 

Xeck Height and to Waist.. ..7 j4 — ISVj inches 

Length of Shoulder 5^4 inches 



IXSTRUCTIONS. 

l'"ollo\v same instructions as given in the Blouse Shirt Waist, diagram 81, page l60 

I )n Ijust line from 1 to 19. 11 to 8 is 5 inches. Square over 8 to 12, 2 inches. 

19 to 10 is 3 '4 inches; S to 20 is Vi inch: 3 to 4 is '/2 inch. 

Shape armscye and shoulder from — 20 — 10 — T — H — L — 12 — 3 — 11. This completes the 
blouse. 

Draft new sleeve for blouse. 

Draw line L B. L to 15 is '4 bust, 9 inches, l.s to B is '4 bust, 9 inches. 

B to 21 is 3 inches taken off for cuff' as shown in the diagram. This cuff is joined on the liot- 
tom of sleeve 17 — 20, which gives full length. 

Square over the given ])oints, L to 1. 14 inches, 4 inches less than '-j of l)ust measure. 

Square down 1 to If). 

21 to 20 is >2 inch; 16 to 17 is yj inch; 15 to 14 is .;'4 inch; 12 to 13 is -Vj inch; 3 to 2 is 2 
inches; 18 to 19 is 1 incli. Shape as shown. 

To place sleeve in blouse, bring notch A. whicli is the underarm of sleeve, on point L in blouse. 

P'or cuff 11 to 8 is 8>-2 inches. Take center of 1 1 — 8. square u\). 

10 to 9 is j/j inch ; 9 to 6. 11 to 7. 8 to 5 is 3^/2 inches. 

Measure from 6 to 7, 6 to 5, 5 '4 inches. 

Shape cuff as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



171 




<x' Oi 




Diagram 87 



172 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



BLOUSE WAIST WITH DEEP ARMHOLE. 

Diagram 88 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Across Back 14 inches 

Waist 25 inches Underarm 8^ inches 

Hip 41 inches Shoulder Heights Front 9j4 — 7% inches 

Across Chest 15>^ inches Shoulder Height Back 8J4 — 6 inches 

Neck 14 inches Length Back to Waist 7]/^ — 15>4 inches 

Length Front of Waist.... 734 — 173^ inches Length of Shoulder 5^ inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in first and second lessons for Waists and diagrams 81-82 

Under arm from T to 5 is 3 inches. 

Draw new armhole from 4 — 2 — 3 10 to S. 

Draft new sleeve for the blouse. 

Draw line 3 to 22. 

10 to 22 is 11 inches, length of sleeve to elbow; 10 to 13 is Zy^ inches, 34 inch less on each inch, 
the distance from T to 5 at the underarm of blouse. 

Square points 3 — 10 — 13 — 22 over, 3 to 1 is 14 inches. 

Square 1 down to 19, 5 to 2 is J^ of bust 4J^ inches ; 2 to 4 is 1>4 inches; 13 to 14 — 12 to 11 is 

V/i inches; 19 to 20 is 1 inch; 21 to 22 is 1 inch. 
Draw line from 3 to 6, 6 to 1. 

3 to 8 is 3 J4 inches and 1 to 7 is 3 K inches. 

18 to 17 is 1/2 inch; 15 to 16 is 1/2 inch. 

Shape sleeve 21— 17— 14— 8-4— 7— 12— 11— 1&-20. 

This completes sleeve for this blouse. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



175 




Diagram 88 



174 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOW TO MAKE A KIMONO SLEEVE FROM A BLOCK PATTERN. 

Diagram 89 

MEASURES. 

Bust . 38 iiu'lies Acrcjss Back 14 indies 

Waist 25 inches L'nderarm 8' j inclies 

[lip 41 inches Shoulder Height Front 93-^ — 7jj inches 

.■\cross Chest l.^'j inches Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8% inches 

.Veck 14 inches Neck Height and to Wai.st... 7>4 — 15>4 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7>4 — 17^2 inches Length of Shoulder S-}!! indict 

INSTRLCTKJNS. 

Lay hack and front shoulders togetiier. allowing between 16 — 17, J4 inch. 

Draw line from 18 tlirough 17 to 10, 1') inches, length of sleeve to elbow. 

IS to 11 is 10 inches. .Square over 11 to 7. 7 inclies. 11 to 12 is 6 inches. 

S(|uarc i>oints 7 — 12 down to 8 — l.v t'onnect 1,^ with 8. I'roni If) to '' is 1 inch. 

Shape bottom as shown. 

At the underarm of waist on back pari we gain 1 inch, from 14 to 7. .^ to 6. 

At the underarm of waist on front part we lose '4 inch, from original line to 12, and 21 to 22. 

Shape tlie underarm of waist at 12 — 7 round as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



175 




Diagram 89 



176 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



KIMONO WAIST WITH AN UNDER GORE WORKED FROM A 

BLOCK PATTERN 

Diagram 90 

MEASURES. 

Bust 38 inches Across Back .14 inches 

Waist 25 inches Underarm SJ^ inches 

Hips .41 inches Shoulder Height Front 9j4 — 7j/$ inches 

Across Chest 15J^ inches Shoulder Heights Back 8J4 — 6 inches 

Neck 15 inches Neck Height of Waist 7^ — 15J/2 inches 

Length Front of Waist 7 — 17 inches Length of Shoulder 5-34 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Take your plain shirtwaist pattern, lay the two shoulders together and mark the whole blouse as 
diagram shows. 

Cut back, neck and front out of pattern. 

Bring point F exactly on H and break your pattern to get middle line G — T ; open the pattern 

again, and drawn line G — T as diagram shows. 

Measure on line G S, which is 18 inches, which is the length of sleeve to elbow. 

Square over S to J and S to P. which is 8 inches. 

From S to T is 1 inch. 

Shape from J through T to P. as diagram shows. 

From G to I is 7^4 inches. 

Square over to L and N, which is 6% inches on each side. 

Now connect M with L, L with J, R with N, and N with P. 

You will see the dotted line is our original pattern. 

The amount we lose from L to 1 and N to 2 we allow between B and C, which is 3>^ inches. 

Then take the center of B C, which gives us point E. 

Square on point E down to D, Syi inches, underarm blouse, the same as L to M and N to R. 

Now square on point A, which is IOJ/2 inches, underarm sleeve, the same distance as N to P 
and L to J. 

Now connect the underarm to the body by bringing V to Y, X to K, U to Q and W to O. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



177 




DlAGRAM 90 



178 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



MANISH SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE. 

Diagram 91 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line A to B. A to 7 is 4^/2 inches, % of i)ust measure. 7 to 17 is '4 of bust measure, 9 
inches. 17 to B is J4 of bust measure, "> inches. B to 28 is 3 inches. These 3 niches are 
taken off the length for the cuff. 

Square all given points. A to C is 14 inches. 4 inches less than J/- of bust measure. Scjuare down 
C to D. Complete box for sleeve. 

28 to 23 is yi inch ; 22 to 21 is ^2 inch ; 14 to 15 is 1 inch : 16 to 17 is 1 inch : 24 to 2.5 is 1 inch. 
Draw line from A to 5 and 5 to C. C to 4 is 3'j inches; .\ to 3 is 3j _> inches; 1 to 2 is !'/■ 
inches. Shape sleeve as shown. 

To make o])ening in sleeve, from 23 to 27 is 4''.. inches. .Square u]) to 27, 5]/' inches to 20. 
'ilic piece set on over opening, is IJ/ inches wide, as shown, from 27 to 26. 20 to 19 and uj) 
to 18. 

l''or cuff, draw line 11 tn 13. ') inches, Take center at 12. s(|uarc uj) to 9, 6 inches. 8 and 10 
is '/j the distance of 12 — '\ whicli is break line for turn back cuti. From 22 to 23 gather 
sleeve to fit cuff' at 13 to 11. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



179 




OlAGKAM 91 



180 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOM:i:N. 



HOW TO MAKE SHAWL COLLAR AND LAPEL. 

Diagram 92 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Measure from the deepest point of neck, 22 to 22>. 1 inch. 
Draw a line from the bottom of lapel at 26 through 23 to 24. 
32 to 21 is 2-34 inches, 34 inch more than back neck measure. 
Square over on line 24—26, \y^ inches to 25, standing band, and over to 35. 
35 to 36 is Yi inch allowed for spring. 
Shape back line of collar from 25, 24, 21 to 36. 
Shape collar and lapel as diagram shows. 

Place separate piece of paper under collar and trace out according to shape of collar. 
To trace out lapel, break on line 26, 24, turn paper under, and trace out the shape of lapel, which 
will be reversed on opposite side. 

HOW TO MAKE NOTCH COLLAR. 

Diagram9J 
INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in shawl collar with the exception from 19 to 18, draw line 

which gives the notch. 
Shape as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



181 




Diagram 92 



Diagram 93 



1«2 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOW TO MAKE A LAY-DOWN COLLAR FROM BLOCK PATTERN 

WITHOUT STAND BAND. 

Diagram 94 

i.\srRi'( ri( )Ns. 

Lay hack ami fniiU sIkiuIcKts idi^elhcr al |iijiiUs 4 — 7. Make cc)llai" any (k-sircil wiiltli. in Uiis 
case 4 inclics. 

Al liacls fniiii _' t(i 1 allow '4 iiicli for spriiijj;. 

Shape collar as sluiwn fiMin .1 — 1 — 2 — 3 to '1. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. I83 




DiACUAM 94 



184 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOW TO MAKE A SAILOR COLLAR FROM BLOCK PATTERN 

WITHOUT STAND BAND. 



Diagram 95 



INSTRUCTIONS. 



Lav front and back shoulders together at points 4 — •/. Make collar any desired length, in thii 
case from neck to 6 is 6 inches. 

Draw straight line from 6 to 4. 

From 2 to 1 is J4 inch allowed for spring. Collar is 7 inches deep in back. 

Draw line frorr 3 to 1. Square over on this line 7 inches to 5. Shape collar from 6 — 5 a= 
shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN 



185 




DlAGKAil 95 



Sl^irts 



188 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

HIPLESS OR HOBBLE SKIRTS IN ONE PIECE. 

U1AGR.AM 96 

MEASURES. 

Waist -25 inches Length Side 433/2 inches 

Hip 41 inches Length Bacl< 45 inches 

Length Front 42 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 
Draw Hne A B. 
A to C is 4 inches. 
Square over A to F and C to E 12J{> inches ■'> of waist measure pkis -S inches, in this case 

17^/2 inches. 
These 5 inches are taken out between the darts at waist Hne. 
We allow these 5 inches in order to have less sweep at the bottom of skirl. 
Connect F with E. 
C to K is j^ inch. 
F to I is J4 inch. 
Draw waist line from K to I. 

Measure down from waist line 6 inches to dotted line D G. 
Measure hip from D G ZOyz inches, j<2 of hip measure. 
Draw back line from I through G to H 45 inches. 
Front length from K to B, 42 inches. 
Side length, 433-^ inches, and shape bottom as shown. 
This completes the box for hipless skirts. 
From front Hne (mi hip Hne measure from I) to T j!-4 inches. T to S 6j^ inches; S to R 63/2 

inches. 
At waist line K to X is 3 inches, X to VV is inches, and VV to Y is 6 inches. 
Measure from X to P 34 inch, X to (J }i incli. .\ to V" is 5 inches. 
Shape dart from V to P and V to ( ), 

-Measure from W to N I34 inches and \\ to M 1 Hi inches. 
Shape dart from S to N and S to M. 
-Measure from Y to 1. 1 inch, Y to J 1 inch. 
Y to U is 53^ inches. 
Shape dart through U 10 L and U to J. 
This completes the hipless skirt. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



189 




Diagram 96 



190 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



EMPIRE SKIRT. 

Diagram^/ 

MEASURES. 

\\ aisi - -'3 inches Length hroul 4.i ihcIk'.- 

ilip .__ 41 inches Length Hack 47 inchc- 

Length Side 4.^'.. inches 



l\s'J4-;ii;ti()XS. 

1 )ra\\ hue -\, 11. 

A to C is 4 inches. 

Si|uare over from .\ lu 1' ami ( Ici 1'.. li'j inches. ' j of waisl measure iilu> .^ inches, ni thi> 

case l7'/2 inches. These 3 inches are taken (JUt hetween darts at waist line! 
Connect I*" with E. 
C to K is ' _> inch. 
F to I is -5/4 of an inch. 
Draw waist Hne K, L 

Measure down from waist line 6 inches to dotted line D G. 
.Measure hip, D. G. which is 20' 2 inches. '2 of hip measure. 
Til make skirt Empire, measure up from the natural waist line, K. I, _' inches, which gi\es us 

])oints Z and O. 
Lonnect Z to O. 

Xow draw a hne from O through 1, ii hi 11. A7 inches, length of skirl in hack. 
The front length from Z to H. 44 inches. 
Side length, 45J/2 inches. 
This completes the ijox of lunjiire .Skirt. 
From front D to T on hi]) is 3',j inches. 
T to S is Gyi inches. 
S Id R is 6y.i inches. 

( )n natural waist hne K to X is .3 niches, X to W is (1 inches, and W to \' is n inches. 
Draw a line from T through X to Enipn-e waist line. 
At natural waisl line measure from X to 1' '4 inch and X to ( ) '4 inch. 
At top of waist line measure from 8 to ') % inch and from S to 7, ,' ,s inch, and shape <lari as 

shown. 
Draw a line from S through W to Em|)ire waist line. 
From \\" measure ■V4 inch to .\ and from W ■; J inch to M. 

.\t top of waist line measure from .'i to 6, is -Vs inch, and from .3 to 4, is.\s inch. 
Shape dart as shown. 

Draw a line from R through \ to luiijiire waist line. 
Measure from Y to L s,s inch and from ^' to J S-s inch. 
At top of waist line measure from 2 to 3. ' j inch and 2 to T, is '/. inch. 
Y to U is 5 inches. 
.Sha])e dart as shown. _ 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



191 




Df.\(.u.\M 97 



192 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOBBLE SKIRT WITH SIDE PLEAT 

Diagram 98 

MEASURES. 

Waist 25 inches Front, length 40 inches 

Hip 41 inches Right, length 42 inches 

Back, length 43 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS 



Follow same instruction as given in diagram 99, Page 194, with exception, at bottom 
9 is the center of B H. Draw line from W. to 9. To form inverted pleat in the side, measure 
from 9 up to 3-15 inches, from 3 over to 4-5-2-1-li inches to each point. At bottom, measure 
from 9 over to 10-11-8-7-2 inches to each point. This completes skirt. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



193 




Diagram 98 



194 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOBBLE SKIRT j 

Diagram 99 

MEASURES. 

Waist 25 inches Front, length 40 inches 

Hip 41 inches Right, length 42 inches 

Back, length 43 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw a line A — B. 

A to C is 4 inches. 

S.-juare over. 

A to F and C to E is 12>4 inches, ^j of waist measure plus 5 inches, in this case 17',-2 inches. 

These 3 inches are taken out between the dart at waist line. We allow these 5 inches in ordci 

to have less sweep at the Dottom of skirt. 
Connect F with E. 
G to K is ^ inch. 
F to I is M inch. 
Draw waist line K to I. 

Measure down from waist line 6 inches to dotted line D — G. 
Measure hip from D — G, 20J^ inches. J4 of hip measure, 41 inches. 
At front line hip, from D to F is 4 inches, B to 2 is 6 inches at bottom. 
Draw line from 2 through T to x. X to P is >'2 inch and x to O is >4 inch. 
Shape dart as shown. 

.^t back on hip, G to R is 3 inches at bottom, 3to 1 is Ayi inches. 3 to H is 5 inches. 
Square over 3 to 1, draw line from 1 through R to Y. 
Y to L is i/i inch. Y to J is ^ inch. 
Shape as shown. 

Take the center of R and T on hip. which gives us point S. 
Take the center of L — O at waist line, which gives us point \^^ 
Draw line from S to W. W to N is D'4 inches. W to M is l;4 inches. 
Measure up from bottom skirt to Q. 
12 inches from 2 to Z. 
12 inch cut through the side panel as shown, 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



195 




Diagram 99 



1 96 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMSN. 



PANTALOON SKIRT. 

Diagram 100 

MEASURES. 

Waist - IS inclies Length Front 42 inches 

Hip 41 inches Length Side 43>.. inches 

Length Back 45 inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw hne A B. 

A to C is 4 inches. 

Square over A to F and C to E 12>2 inches, >2 of waist measure phis 5 indies, in this case 17'/. 

inches. 
These 5 inches are taken out at the waist hne, between the dart and at center back. 
Connect F" with E. 
C to K is 3^2 inch. 
F to I is -yi inch. 
Draw waist hne K to L 
O is 3^ the distance between K — L 
From P to VV is /2 inch. 

Draw new waist line from K througii W to 1. 
Measure down from new waist line K. W. 
D G is 20J/2 inches, ".^ of hip measure. 
Draw back line from I through G to H, 



inches to dotted line D G. 
45 inches. 



Side length, 43/2 inches. 

Front length, 42 inches. 

Shape bottom as shown. This completes bo.x. 

.At front, from K down to 14 is 14yj inches. 

Square over from 14, 6>4 inches to 11. 

14 to 12 is 23/ inches. 

At bottom, from B to 10 is 6y2 inches. 

.Shape to]) as shown. 

.\t l)Ottom, 7 is 1/2 the distance l)et\\een I! H. 

Draw line from 7 up to W. 

At waist line, measure from W down to S, 16>4 inches for pleat. 

W to N is 234 inches. 

W to M is Zyi inches. 

From S to U. 4 inches. 

From S to T, 4 inches. 

At bottom, 7 to 8 is 6 inches. 

7 to 6 is 6 inches, draw line. 

Shape top gores as shown. 

At center back on waist line I to X is 3S inch. 

.At hip to G to Z is 34 inch. 

From I measure down to 3, IH'/j inches. 

Square over from 3 to 1, 8 inches. 

3 to 2 is 234 inches. 

At bottom From H to 4 is 8 inches, draw line. 

Shape top as shown. 

The front and back panels arc cut separate from tjic skirt. 

K to O is 3 inches. 
At bottom, B to 9 is 6 inches 
At back. X to Y is 3 inches. 
At bottom. H to 5 is 6 inches. Shape as shown. 
Center front and back panels are cut on the fold of material. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN, 



197 




Diagram 100 



198 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



CIRCULAR SKIRT. 

Diagram 101 

MEASURES. 

Waist 25 inches Leng-th Front 42 inclies 

Hip 42 inches Length Side 43'/2 inches 

Length Back 45 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw a line A B. 

A to C is 4 inches. 

Square over from A to F and C to E is S'/^ inches. 

Connect F with E. 

C to K is 1 inch. 

F to I is 3 inches. 

D^aW straight hne connecting K with L 

Take the center of I K, which gives us i)()int U. 

Q to R is 1^ inches. 

Draw new waist line from K through R to 1. 

Measure down from new waist line 6 inches to dotted line D G. 

Measure hip D to G, which is 21 inches, ■/> of hip measure. 

Draw a line from I through G to H 45 inches, the length of skirt in back. 

The front length from K to B is 42 inches. 

Side length, 43j/^ inches, and shape bottom as diagram shows. 

To make inverted pleat at the center back, go out at waist line from I to N 2 inches and 2 inches 

from N to M. 
At the bottom go out from H to L 5 inches and L to J 5 inches. 
To form inverted pleat, take up on line I H and meet at center back line M J. 
This completes the circular skirt. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



199 




Diagram lul 



200 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



THREE-GORE SKIRT. 

Diagram 102 

MEASURES. 

Waist 25 inches Length Front 42 inches 

Hip 42 inches Length Side iSyi inches 

Length l!ack A5 inches 

Draw hne A B. 

A to C is 4 inches. 

Square over A to F and C to E 12'/2 inches, whicli is '/j of waist measnrc phis 1/j indies, in 
this case 14 inches. 

Connect F with E. 

From C to K is 1 inch. 

F to I is 1^ inches. 

Draw a straight hne from K to 1. 

Take the center of K and I. from this point 20 measure down ' j inch to iv. 

Shape new waist hne fnim 1\. through R to L 

Measure down from new waist hne inches to dotted line D G. 

Measure D G, which is 21 inches, JX of hip measure. 

Draw a line from I through G to II, 4-5 inches, length of skirt in back. 

Front length from K to B is 42 inches. 

.Side length, 43J/2 inches, and shape bottom as diagram shows. 

This completes the box for a three gore .-kirt. 

[Moni gore at hip D to T is 3 inches. 

At the bottom B to \' is 7 inches. 

Draw a line from V through T to L. 

Measure from L to O J4 of an inch and L to F J/^ of an inch. 

Shape gore from P to T and O to T. 

S is about yi the distance from T to G. 

R to S is 4 inches. 

Measure from R to X 1 inch and R to .M 1 inch. 

Shape dart from N to S and M to S. 

This completes the three gore skirt. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 201 




Diagram 102 



202 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



FIVE-GORE FLOUNCE SKIRT. 

Diagram 10^ 

MEASURES. 

Waist Measure-- --•■ inches Hip Measure 42 iiiclies 

Length - 42 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1 Follow the h\e-gore skirl exacth' as described in the following lesson, diagram, 104, page 

201^. 
2. C to y IS ,',4 Inp measure, lU'j inches. 

C to L is 16 inches, or ji of 21 inches, 'j of hip measure plus '4 inch. 

Flounce from H to j in hack is 1(> inches, and in front, from IJ to K, 8 inches. L'sing 

L as a pivcjt, sweep top of flounce K — R. R to K measures the same as K to j. 
Using Q as a pivot, sweep curve B — 1. 1 is straight through R to y. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



203 



us s 




Diagram 10 < 



204 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



FIVE GORE SKIRT. 

* Diagram 104 

MEASURES. 

Waist 25 inches Length l'"rnnt 43 inches 

liip 42 inches Length Side 45>'2 inches 

Lengtli llacU 47 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

i'ollnw same instructions for l:)Ox as given for three gore skirt in diagram 102, pagelOP, witli the 
exception of an extra gore. This gore is ol)tained by taking 16 the (hstance from \' to 
H, which gives us point U. 

Take ,!/> the distance from T to G on hip. which gives us point S. 

Xow draw a line from I' through S to R. 

Measure from R to N 1 inch. ''€ J.7 

Measure from R to AI 1 inch, and sliape gore from N to .S ;md M to S as diagram sliows. 

This completes the fi\'e gored skirt. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



205 




Diagram 104 



206 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

SEVEN GORE SKIRT. 

1' DlAGR,\M 105 

MEASURES. 

Waist 25 inches Length Front 42 inches 

Hip 42 inches Length Side 43>4 inches 

Length Back 45 inches 

Draw line A B. 

A to C is 4 inches. 

Square over from A to F and C to E, 12y, inches, Yi of waist measure plus 4 inches, in thi,-- 
case 16J/2 inches. These 4 inches are taken out between the darts as at top of waist line. 

Connect F with E. 

C to K is 1 inch. 

!■■ to I is 1^ inches. 

Draw straight line from K to L 

Take the center of K, I, go down '^ incii and draw, new waist line. 

Measure down from ne:w waist line 6 inches to dotted line D to G. 

Measure hip, D to G, which is 21 inches, '6 oi hip measure. 

Draw line from I through G to H, 45 inches, the length of skirt in back. 

Front length from K to B is 42 inches. 

Side length, 43>2 inches, and shape bottom as diagram shows. 

This completes the box for a seven gore foundation. 

All skirts with more than seven gores require the same foundation. 

The front gore at hip, D to T, is 3 inches. 

B to 3 at bottom is 5 inches. Draw a line from 3 through T to waist line. 

From this line ¥% measure inch to O and 34 inch to P, and shape gore from P to T, and O to T. 

Now take the distance from T to G and divide equally into 3 gores of 6 inches each, which gives 
us points S and R. 

.-\t bottom take the distance from 3 to H and divide equally into 3 gores of 12 inches each, which 
gives us points 1 and 2. 

Draw a line from 2 through S to waist line. 

From this line measure 1 inch to N and 1 Inch to M, and shape gore from N to S and M to S. 

From 1 draw a line through R to waist line. From this line measure ^s inch to L and % inch 
to K, and shape gore from L to R and K to R. 

This completes the seven gore skirt. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 207 




Diagram 105 



208 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



NINE GORE SKIRT. 

Diagram 106 

MEASURES. 

\\'aist 25 inches Length Front 4,^ inches 

Hip 42 inches Length Side 45>2 inches 

Length Back 47 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

P'ollow same instructions for box as given in diagram 10.^, page lOh. 

The front gore at hip. D to T. is 254 inches. 

B to 4 at bottom is 6 inches. 

Draw a line from 4 through T to waist hne. l''rom this line measure >4 inch to P and ^4 inch 
to O, and shape gore from P to T and () to T. 

Take the distance from T to G and divide equally into 4 gores of 43/2 inches each, which gives 
us points S, R and O. 

At bottom take the same distance from 4 to II and divide equally into 4 gores of C)-54 inches each, 
which gives us jioints 3, 2 ami 1. 

Draw a line from 3 through S to waist line. From this line measure s,s inch to N and ■'^.s inch 
to M, and shape gore from N to S and M to S. 

Draw a line from 2 thr(jugh R to waist line. 

From this line measure rn inch to L and .\s inch to K, and shape gore from L to R and K to R. 

Draw a line from 1 through O to waist line. From this line measure ',2 inch to J, 'j inch to 
1, and shape gore from J to O and I to O. 

This completes the nine gore skirt. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



209 




Diagram 106 



210 ■ THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

ELEVEN GORE SKIRT FOR A FULL CORPULENT FIGURE. 

Diagram 107,..' 

MEASURES. 

Waist - 3*+ inches Length Front 42 inches 

Hip 48 inches Length Side 433/1 inches 

Length Back 45 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw a Hne A B. 

A to C is 4 inches. 

Square over from A to F and C to E, 17 inches, y2 of waist measure plus 3 inches ; in this 

case 20 inches. These 3 inches are taken out between the darts at waist hne. 
Connect F with E. 
Draw a straight line from C to F. 

Take the center from C F, go down >4 inch and draw a new waist hne. 
Measure down from new waist line 6 inches to dotted line D G. 
Measure hip, D, G, which is 24 inches, >2 of hip measure. 
Draw a line from F through G to H. 45 inches, the lengtli of skirt in hack. 
Side length, 43>4 inches. 
Front length from C to B is 42 inches. 
Shape bottom as diagram shows. 

Measure down from C to 5 — 14 inches, which is 1-3 length of skirt, 42 inches. 
Measure from 5 to 6, ^ of an inch. , 

Draw a new front line from B through 6 to X, the distance from C to the front line is p/s of an 

inch in this case, and measure up the same distance to X. 
Draw a straight line X to V, which is eased in over the fullest part of the stomach. 
The front gore at liip, D to Y, is iVi inches. 
B to 5 at bottom is 6 inches. 
Draw a line from 5 through to Y to waist line ; from this line measure '4 of an inch to \" and 34 

of an inch to \5. and shape gore from \ to Y and U to Y. 
Take the distance from Y to G and divide equally into 5 gores, 4 inches each, which gives u.s 

points T, S, R and Q. 
.\\. the bottom take the distance from 5 to H, anr' divide equally into 5 gores of 8 inches each, 

give us points 4, 3, 2 and 1. 
Draw a line from 4 through T to waist line. From this line measure '/ of an inch to P and Y^ 

of an inch to O, and shape gore from P to T and O to T. 
Draw a line from 3 through S to -waist line, from this line measure >4 of an inch to N and Yz of 

an inch to M, and shape gore from N to S and M to S. 
Draw a line from 2 through R to waist line. 
From this line measure J/, inch to L and Y2 inch to K. 
Shape gore from L to R and K to R. 
Draw line from 1 through O to waist line. 
From this line measure l^ of an inch to T and V^ of an inch to I, and shape gore from J to O 

and I to Q. 
This completes the 11 gore skirt, for a figure with a high stomach. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



211 




Diagram 107 



212 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOM:i:N. 

ELEVEN GORE FLARE. 

Diagram 108 



MEASURES. 

Waist 25 inches Length Front 43 inches 

Hip 42 inches Length Side 45J-4 inches 

Length Back 47 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions for box as given in diagram 105, page 20U 

Front gore at hip, D to Y, 3 inches. 

B to 15 is 6 inches. 

Draw a line from 15 through Y to waist line, from this line go out ^ inch to V and yi inch to 
U, and shape gore from V to Y and U to Y. 

Take the distance from Y to G ar d divide equally into 5 gores of ^Yz inches each, which gives 
us points T, S, R and Q. 

At bottom take the distance from 15 to I, and divide equallv into S gores, which gives us points 
12, 9, 6 and 3. 

Draw a line from 12 through T to waist hne. From this line measure Yb inch to P and ^ inch 
to O, and shape gores from P to T and O to T. 

Draw a line from 9 through S to waist line. 

From this line measure 5^ inch to N and % '^ch to M, and shape gore from N to S and from 
M to S. 

Draw a line from 6 through R to waist line, from this line measure J/ inch to L, Y2 inch to K, 
and shape gore from L to R and K to R. 

Draw a line from 3 through Q to waist line, from this line measure Y& inch to J and Y& inch to 
I, and shape gore from J to O and I to Q. 

To add the flare on this skirt go down from waist line 12 inches on each gore. At the bottom 
front gore go out 1 inch from 15 io 14. 

The second gore 2 inches from 15 to 16, and 12 to 11. 

The third gore 2 inches from 12 to 13, and 9 to 8. 

The fourth gore 2 inches from 9 to 10 and G to 5. 

Fifth gore 2 inches from 6 to 7, and 3 to 2. 

Sixth gore 2 inches from 3 to 4, and from 1 to H. 5 inches for the flare down center. 

Trace out gores 1, 2 and 3, No. 1 from U to Y to 16, across bottom to 11, up to T and P, over 
to U at waist line. 



No. 2 from M to S, 10 across bottom to 5 up tc R. L, and over to M to waist line. 

No. 3 from I Q 4 over bottom to H, up to G and I, go in Ya- inch to I at the center back lint 
and over to waist line to I. 

The other three remaining gores of the diagram are cut out and matched one after the other. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



213 




Diagram 108 



214 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

THIRTEEN GORE PLEATED SKIRT 

Diagram 109 

MEASURES. 

Waist 25 inches Length Front 43 inches 

Hip 42 inches Length Side 45^2 inches 

Length Back 45 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions for box as given in diagram 105, page 20u 

Front gore at hip, D to Z, is 3 inches. 

Ij to 17 at bottom is inches. 

Draw a line from 17 through Z to waist line. From this line measure '/i inch to X and ;,4 inch 

to W, and shape gore from X to Z and W to Z. Now take the distance from Z to G 

and divide equally into 6 gores of 2f4 inches each, which gives us points Y, T, S. R 

and g. 
At the bottom take the distance from 7 to Fl and divide equally into b gores 7^4 inches each, 

which gives us points 14, 11, 8, 5 and 2. Now draw a line from 14 through Y to waist line. 
From this line measure :Ks of an inch to V and -/fi of an inch to I', and shape gore from V 

to Y and U to Y. 
iJraw a line from 11 through T to waist line; from this line measure 'j inch to 1' and ' .. inch to 

O, and shape gore from P to T and O to T. 
Draw a line from 8 tlirough S to waist line. From this line measure ;>ii of an inch to .\ and j/g, 

of an inch to M. and shape gore from N to S and M to S. 
Draw a line from 5 through R to waist line. From this line measure -ji of an inch to L and Vn 

of an inch to K, and shape gore from L to R and K to R. 
Draw a line from 2 through O to waist line. From this line measure J4 '"^-h to [ and V4 inch 

to I, and shape gore from J to O and I to O. 
To make pleats in skirt, measure down from waist line any depth desired, in this case 18 inches 

down on front gore and 1 inch higher on each gore to the back. 
To make the pleats in skirt, measure from the straight line 1 inch to 30 and 1 inch to 29. 
From straight line 1 inch to 28 and 1 inch to 27. |_' 
From straight line I inch to 26 and 1 inch to 25. > 
From straight line 1 inch to 24 and 1 inch to 23.1 
I'Vom straight line 1 inch to 22 and 1 inch to 21. 
From straight line 1 inch to 20 and 1 inch to 19. 
At the bottom of skirt measure 2 inches at the first gore from 17 to 16. second gore 2 inches from 

17 to 18 and 2 inches from 14 to 13, third gore 2 inches from 14 to 15 and 2 inches from 

11 to 10, fourth gore 2 inches from 11 to 12 and 2 inches from 8 to 7, fifth gore 2 inches 

from 8 to 9, 2 inches from 5 to 4, sixth gore 2 inches from 2 to 3. 
To trace out gores 1. 2 and 3. 
.\o, 1 from \V to Z to straight line over to 30, down to 18, across bottom to 13, and up to 27. 

over to straight line up to Y and V, across waist line to W. 
No. 2 from O to T, down straight line, over to 26, down to 12, across the bottom to 7, up to 23 

to straight line, up to S, to N, over to waist line to O. 
No. 3 from K R to straight line over to 22. down to 6, across bottom to 1, up to 19, over to 

straight line, up to O to J, across waist line to K. 
The other four remaining gores of the diagram are cut out and matched on after the other. 
This completes the 13 gore pleated skirt. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



215 




Diagram 1 09 



216 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



FIFTEEN GORE SKIRT. 

Diagram 1 10 

MEASURES. 

Waist 25 inches Length Front 43 inches 

Hip 42 inches Length Side ASyi inches 

Length Back .....47 inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions for box as given in diagram 105, page 20L) 

The front gore at hip, 3 to T, is 3 inches. 

B to 7 at bottom is 6 inches. 

Draw a line from 7 through 3 to waist line. 

From this line measure 54 of an inch to 2. ^4 of an inch to 1, and shape gore from 2 to 3 and 

1 to 3. Now take the distance from 3 to G, and divide equally into 7 gores of 25<2 inches 

each, which gives us points Z, Y, T, S, R and Q. 
Take the distance at the bottom from 7 to H and divide equally into 7 gores of 5 inches each, 

which gives us points 6, 5, 4, 3, 2 ana 1. 
Draw a line from 6 through Z to waist line. From this line measure fs of an inch to X, }i of 

an inch to W, and shape gore from X to Z and from W to Z. 
Draw a line from 5 through T to waist line. 
From this line measure ^2 inch to V and Vz inch to U, and shape gores from V to Y and U 

to Y. 
Draw a line from 4 through T to waist line. 
From this line measure yi inch to P and Vj inch to O. 
Shape gore from P to T and O to T. 
Draw a line from 3 through S to waist lin«_ 

From this line measure -Is of an inch to N and fi of an inch to M. 
Shape gore from N to S and M to S. 
Draw a line from 2 through R to waist line. From this line measure fs of an inch to L and yi 

of an inch to K, and shape gore from L to R and K to R. 
Draw a line from 1 through O to waist line. From this line measure ^4 of an inch to J and yi 

inch to L 
Shape gore from J to Q and Q to L 
This completes the 15 gore skirt. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 217 




Diagram 110 



Riding Habits 
and 

Breeches 



220 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



SAFETY RIDING SKIRT. 

Diagram ill 

MEASURES. 

Hip 42 inches Length 42 inches 

Waist : 25 inches Side 43 inches 

Back 44 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Front part, draw line A — B, 41J4 inches. 

Square over on Hne A — B to C 49 inches. 

A to 12 is 3^4 inches; A to 11 is 5 inches; A to 10 is 5M inches; A to 9 is 7 inches; A to 8 is 8 
inches ; A to 7 is 9y2 inches ; A to 9 is 14^/1 inches ; A to 5 is 29^ inches ; A to 4 is 333/2 
inches; A to 3 is 35>^ inches; A to 2 is 39 inches; A to 1 is 4I>^ inches; A to C is 49 
inches. 

Square downon all the given points. 

12 to 13 is Yi inch; 11 to 14 is 1^4 inches; 10 to 15 is 2 inches; 9 to 16 is 2>4 inches; 8 to 17 is 2^4 
inches; 7 to 18 is 2% inches; 5 to 31 is 7^)4 inches; 4 to 30 is 5^4 inches; 3 to 29 is 6j^ 
inches; to 35 is 19 inches. 2 to 34 is 16 inches; 1 to 28 is 1>4 inches; C to 17 is 25 inches; 
to D is 41)4 inches. 

Connect B — D. D to 26 is 8 inches. Liii^.ii:i«r^ 

B to 25 is 3 inches ; A to 22 is 5>4 inches ; A to 23 is 7>34 inches ; A to 24 is 11 inches. 

Square over the given points. 

22 to 36 is 3|4 inches; 23 to 20 is 7^2 inches. 

At waist line, from 14 to 15 is 1 inch for dart. 

Draw waist line from 13 through all points to 6. 

Measure down from waist line 6 inches to dotted line for hip. Measure dotted line from 21 
to 19, 21 inches, ]/> of hip measure. 

Make a buttonhole at point 28; a loop at 29 ; a strap at point 31, 14 inches long, 1 inch wide. 

Between points 34 — 35 make a loop for foot to rest. 

Place pocket on left side front, any desired length or shape. The heavy line in pocket indicates 
the opening. 

Draw line from 13—14 — 15—16—17—18—6—19—31—30—29—28—27—26—25—24—21—13. 
This completes skirt shown in illustration. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



221 




Diagram 111 



222 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

BACK PART OF SKIRT. 

'-" Diagram 111 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line A — B, 34-)4 inches. 

Square down over on line A — B 46 inches to C. 

A to ] is lYz inches. 

A to i7 is 5^ inches. 

A to 36 is 7% inches. 

A to 35 is 10 inches. 

A to 34 is 11 inches. 

A to 52 is \2y2 inches. 

A to 31 is 133/2 inches. 

A to 29 is 17 inches. 

. i 

A to 28 is 26>4 inches. 

A to 27 is 39/2 inches. 

A to C is 46 inches. 

Square over on these given points. 

1 to 2 is 434 inches. 

i7 to 39 is 10^ inches, to 38 is 15 inches, to 14 is 18'4 inches; 15 to 17 is 2734 inches. 

36 to 4 is 1434 inches, 35 to 5 is 9 inches, 34 to8 is 15 inches, 32 to 6 is 11% inches, 31 to 7 

is 103^ inches, 29 to 30 is Yi inch, 28 to 2i is 24'/, inches. 27 to 24 is 22 inches, C to 25 is 
11)4 inches, C to 26 is 4 inches, A to 10 is 16 inches, A to 11 is 18 inches, A to 12 is 19 
inches. A to 16 is 2434 inches, A to 18 is 303^2 inches, A to B is 3414 inches. 

Square down 18 to 20, 18 inches. 

-Square down B to 19, 14 inches. 

From 11 to 13 is 3'!' inch, 12 to 15 -^.s inch. 

Shape dart from 15 to 14, 13 to 14. 

Draw waist line from 16 — 1.^ — 13 to 10. Measure down from waist line 6 inches to dotted line 
for hip. Measure dotted line. 17 — 19, IO34 inches, J4 of li'P measure. 

For other part of skirt shape waist line from 2 to 37. Measure down from waist to dotted line 
6 inches. For hip, measure dotted line 3 to 33, IO34 inches, ;4 of hip measure. Draw 
straight line from 20 to 2i. 

From 20 to 22 is 4 inches, 22 to 21 is 334 inches. 

Shape skirt from 37—33—30—28—26—25—24—23—21—20—19—17—16—15—13—10—9 
—8—7—5—6-4—3—2. 

At point 19 ease in ]/> inch between notches. 

Place button at back of skirt 3 inches from 5. This completes the back part of skirt. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



223 




Diagram 1 12 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



225 



SAFETY RIDING HABITS 








SHOWING THE DIFFERENT POSITIONS 



226 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



RIDING HABIT (SIDE SADDLE). 
FRONT PART. 

Diagram 11} 

MEASURES. 
Waist 25 inches Hips 43 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw lines 1 — 3 and 1 — 2. 

1 to 4 is ly^ inches, 1 to 6 is 8 inches, 1 to 8 is 12J^ inches. 

1 to 7 is 20 inches, 1 to 5 is il inches, 1 to 3 is 46J^ inches. 

Square points 4, 6, 8, 7 and 5 on line 1 — 3. 

4 to 9 is 2^/2 inches, 6 to 10 is 7^ inches, 6 to 13 is 8J^ inches. 

8 to 11 is TYi inches, 7 to 12 is 6^4 inches, 5 to 31 is 47 inches. 

Connect 3 with 31, 31 — 32, 17 inches. 

Square down from 32 to Zl, 3^^ inches. 

Draft bottom line from 3 to 23, to 31. 

1 to 15 is 12 inches, 1 to 16 is 12>j inches, 1 to 19 is 213^2 inches. 

1 to 20 is 25 inches, 1 to 21 is 30>4 inches, 1 to 2 is 34-J4 inches. 
Now square points 15, 16, 19, 21 and 2 on line 1 — 2. 

15 to 14 is 734 inches, 16 to 17 is 4 inches, 19 to 18 is XIV^ inches, 21 to 22 is 3j/2 inches. 

2 to 25 is 534 inches, 2 to 26 is 6-'4 inches, 2 to 30 is 9 inches, 2 to 29 is 10>< inches. 
Now square points 25, 26, 30 and 29 on line 2 — 29. 

25 to 24 is 2Y\ inches, 26 to 27 is 1 ' 4 inches, 30 to 21 is 634 inches, 29 to 28 is 5>2 inches. 

Now draft 3—5—7—9—10^11—13—14—18 and back, 17—20—22—23—24—27—28—30 down 
to 31. 

11 to 12 is pocket. This finishes our front part. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



227 




Yront part 



'-i^ 



^32 



■33 



DiAGRAMll) 



228 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMZN. 



RIDING HABIT (SIDE SADDLE), 
BACK PART. 

Diagram 1 14 

INSTRUCTIONS. 



For back part draw lines A — C and A — B. 

A to F is 9 inches, A to E is 15^ inches, A to D is 25^ inches, A to C is 48 inches. 

Square points F, E, D and C on line A — C. 

F to N is 15 J/2 inches, F to Q is 25 inches, E to I is 10 inches. 

D to R is 35j4 inches, D to S is 36% inches, D to U is 49i/2 inches. 

C to W is 44>4 inches, C to V is 45^/2 inches. 

Square point W down to X 6-j4 inches. 

Draft bottom line X, Y, C. 

Now connect X — V — U — T, X — T is 38 inches. 

Draft T— S— Y. 

A to G is 3 inches, A to K is 6j4 inches, A to L is 10j4 inches. 

A to P is 1834 inches, A to B is 22>2 inches. 

Square points G, K, L and P on line A — B. 

G to H is 7 inches, K to J is 5 inches, L to M is 1% inches, P — O is -54 inch. 

Now draft C— D— F— H— I— J— M— N— O— B— Q— R down to Y. 

If the width of the material allows to put the back part in one piece, leave out dotted line. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN 



229 




Diagram 114 



230 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DIVIDED RIDING HABIT SKIRT 

Diagram 1 1 5 

MEASURES. 

Waist measure 25 inches Lengtii 40 inches 

Hip measure 44 inches Rise 12 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

1. Draw hne A— B. 

.\ t(.) C is !/4 hip measure, 11 inches. 

.\ lo ]) is waist measure. 2? niciies. 

I) to r. is full length. 40 inches. 

L'se .\ as a pivot and sweeji H to L and it inches below ( hi|)) |)oint V. do same to .\1. 

I'se C as a pivot and sweep from 1) to J and from F to S. 

1) to E is waist measure plus 3 inches: namely. l.\'/j inches. The o inches o\er are taken 
out. 1 inch each at the darts 1 — 8, 9 — 10 and 11 — 12. Darts must he equally apart from 
I' to \3, and are 1 inch aljove the hip line. 

2. Draw line C through E to G, giving point 13. 13 is now exactly the liij) measure from F. 
This diagram shows two inverted plaits; one in front and tiie other in liack. Make plaits 

2 inches on top D — K — L and (> inches at bottom R — P — O, as dotted line shows: the 
same in back. 

3. L to N is Rise measure 12 inches: same with J to T in back: from T to U is iyi inches. 

yi waist measure. L' to \' is 6 '4 inches. '4 waist measure: X to W is 7 inches. Con- 
nect J— S— T— \- and W. 

.\ to O is 4'/4 inches, 1/6 of waist measure : O to R is fi inches. Connect L — M — O to R. 
The sweep at bottom must be taken 40 inches all around from waist line, allowing 1 inch 
more in back. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



231 



\<P 



^O 



®A 



12 



Diagram 1 1 S 



232 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

RIDING BREECHES. 

Diagram 116 



MEASURES. 

Waist 25 inches Knee 16 inches 

Hip 42 inches Small of Knee 14 inches 

Rise - ll-M inches Calf 14>^ inches 

Inseam 30 inches Angle 10 inches 

FOREPART. 

From A square out and down. 

A to C is 11-34 inches, rise measure. 

C to E is Yi of inseam less 1 inch, 14 inches. 

E to K is 1 inches, small of knee. 

K to F is 4 inches for calf. 

C to B is full insteam, 30 inches. 

C to P is 1/3 of Y/i, hip, 103^ inches, in this case 3^/2 inches. This point changes ^ more or 

less, according to larger or smaller sizes. 
Square over all given points. 
C to D is 3-4 of hip, 10>2 inches. 

Square up point D to S and down to Al. This completes the box. 
On hip, D to V is 3^ inch, 1/3 of hip. This point changes y% more or less, according to 

larger or smaller sizes. 
W is ^ the distance of V D. 
Q is >2 the distance of W D. 
Draw line from Q to S, which locates point T. 
Measure over from S to 28, 34 of waist measure plus 1 V^ inches. This 1 ;/> inches are taken out 

in the dart between 13—15. 
S to R is 1 inch. 

Draw line from R through 28 to 17. 
17 is 1 inch from point A. 

Raise waist line from R to S, 28 to 20, 1^2 inches. 
Shape dart from 25 to 15—14—24—13—14. 
C to H is 44 inch, 
f to 26 is ^2 inch ; L to 27 is 1 inch ; 8 to 7 is y^, inch : M to 6 is 2 inches ; 26 to 1 is 7 inches ; 

27 to X is 634 inches : 7 to Z is 6^4 inches ; 6 to 1 is 654 inches. 
Shape forepart from 20— 28— P— H— I— X— Z— 1. 
At top, from S — R — T — \' — 26 — 27 — 7 — 6. This completes the forepart. 

BACK PART. 

Draw line from U through T and up. I'lace square on an angle to 17. 

Draw line from 16 to 17, 83-2 inches, 2>2 inches more than ;4 of waist measure. 

These 2/^ inches are taken out between 19 — 20. 

Raise from 17 to 18, 16 to 29, 1>4 inches, and shape dart from 23—20—21—22—19—21. 

V to W is 2 inches, J to Y is ^ inch, C to 12 is 2 inches. 

Measure 26 to 1,7 inches. Place the 7 inches on 26. Measure over to 10, 16 inches knee meas- 
ure. 

Mea.sure from 27 to X 6 inches, and place the 6 inches on 27. Measure over to 9. 14 inches, 
small of knee. 

Measure 7 to Z 6V2 inches. Place the 634 inches on 7, and measure over to O HK- inches for 
calf. 

From 6 to 1 is 5,4 inches. Place the 5 '4 inches are taken out between 2 and 3. 

more than ankle measure. These 2 inches on 6. Measure over to N, 12 inches, 2 inches 

Point 4 is 1/^ inches below calf. Shape as shown. 

Shape back part from 18— 17— 12— 10— 9— O—N. 

At top, from 29— 16— T— W— Y— 27. 

For under lap on back part 9 to 8, N to 5 is 1 3/2 mches. This completes diagram. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



233 




DiAGRA.M 1 16 



234 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS 
CHILDREN 



Sizes 


2 


4 


6 


8 


10 


12 


14 


16 


18 


Bust 


22/. 


24/ 


26/ 


28/ 


30/ 


32A 


35 


37 


39 


Waist 


20/. 


22/ 


24/ 


26/ 


28/ 


30/ 


23 


24 


25 


Hip 


26 


' 28 

1 


30 


32 


34 


36 


38 


40 


42 


Across Chest 


WA 


11 


11/ 


12 


12/ 


13 


14 


14/ 


IS 


Neck 


WA 


12 


12/ 


13 


13/ 


14 


13/ 


14 


14/ 


Length Waist in Front 














' -16 


7 -16/ 


7/-17 


Shoulder Height Front 


TA- SA 


7/- 5/ 


7H- SM 


8-6 


S/- 6/ 


8/- 6/ 


m- 6H 


9-7 


9/- 7/ 


Back 


534- Mi 


6-4 


6/- 4/ 


6/- 4/ 


(>ii- 434 


7 - 5 


'/- 5/ 


7K- 5^ 


8-6 


Neck, Height and to Waist 


Wa- 9/ 


5 -10/ 


5/-11 


S/-II34 


S?4-12/ 


6 -13/ 


6J4-14/ 


7 -15 


7/-1S/ 


Across Back 


9/ 


10 


10/ 


11 


11/ 


12 


13 


13/ 


14 


Under Arm 














8 


8/ 


8/ 


Shoulder 


4 


4/ 


4/ 


4^8 


4/ 


m 


5/ 


SS/8 


SVa 


Length of Sleeve 


11% 


" 1 


12J4 


13/ 


14'4 


15 


17/ 


18 


ISA 



Diagram 118 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



235 



PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS 
MISSES AND JUNIORS 



Sizes 


12 


13 


14 


15 


16 


17 


18 


Bust 


33 


34 


35 


36 


37 


38 


39 


Waist 


22 


22K 


23 


23^ 


24 


24J^ 


25 


Hip 


36 


37 


38 


39 


40 


41 


42 


Across Chest 


WA 


13J4 


14 


14^ 


\^% 


14^ 


15 


Neck 


13 


13 '4 


13/, 


133^ 


14 


14J4 


14/2 


Length of Waist 


0^4-15 


6J4-15H 


7 -16 


7 -16J4 


7 -16^ 


7J4-16H 


7H-17 


















1-2 
Shoulder Height Front 


8yi- 6yi 


8^-65^ 


8J4- 6^ 


8/8- m 


9-7 


9/8- 7^ 


9A-7A 


















1-2 
Shoulder Height Back 


7'A~ 5'4 


IVi- 5^8 


7/2- 5H 


7H- 5/8 


7M-SJ4 


77/^- 57/8 


8-6 


Neck Height and to Waist 


(>y2-i3A 


6^-14 


6^-14^- 


6/^-14^ 


7 -IS 


7/8-1 5 J4 


7'4-15/2 


Across Back 


UA 


12^ 


13 


13J4 


13/2 


13% 


14 


Under Arm 


lA 


7M 


8 


8J4 


m 


8^ 


8/2 


Shoulder 


554 


5^8 


5/2 


S/8 


5% 


5/8 


6 


Length of Sleeve 


ISKa 


16 


17/2 


1714 


18 


1854 


18^ 



DlAGKAM 118 



236 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



FIRST LESSON. 
EIGHT- YEAR-OLD REEFER. 

DiACRA.M 119 



MEASURES. 

Bust 28^2 inclies Shoulder Height Front 8 — 6 inches 

Waist 26^/2 inches Shoulder Height Back 6^ — Ayi inches 

Hip 32 inches Neck Height of Waist 5>^ — 11^ inches 

Across Chest 12 inches Across Back 11 inches 

Neck 13 inches Shoulder 4^ inches 

Sleeve 13^/2 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Uraw line A — B. A to C is 5^4 inches, neck height in back. .\ to E is 11 j^ inches, length of 
waist in back. E to F is 4 inches, first hip. F to B is -I inches, second hip. Square over 
C — E — F — B on line A — ^B. C to D is 3/2 of bust, 14 '4 inches plus 3 inches allowed for 
seams, 1/34 inches. In a three piece coat we allow 3 inches for seams, and in a two 
piece coat we allow 2 inches for seams. 

U to Q is >2 inch allowed for breathing. D to G is '4 of bust measure, 4^4 inches. G to H 
is ]4, of bust measure. 2]4, inches. C to I is 5^/2 inches, V2 of back measure. 

Square up and down D. Square up G — H — I on line C — D. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



237 



a 



m^ 



D 



G 

# # 



#■ 



A 



4f> 



4^ 



E 



4t)- 



B 



# 



Diagram 119 



238 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



SECOND LESSON. 
EIGHT- YEAR-OLD REEFER. 

Diagram 120 

MEASURES. 

Bust 28J/2 inches Shoulder Height Front 8 — 6 inches 

Waist 26^ inches Shoulder Height Back 6)4 — 4^ inches 

Hip 32 inches Neck Height and to Waist ...5J^ — 11% inches 

Across Chest 12 inches Across Back 11 inches 

Neck 13 inches Shoulder 4)4 inches 

Sleeve 133^2 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

For box follow instructions as given in First l^esson. 

C to Y is 2 inches ; C to P is 4j/< inches, second rhoulder height back. 

Y to O is 6^ inches, first shoulder height back, .'square over A- — P on line A — B. 

In squaring over P. point R is found crossing line I. R to S is '/z inch. 

Draft back neck, A — O. 

Draft back shoulder, O — S, 4-j4 inches. 

At front. H to 3 is 6 inches, second shoulder height front. Square point 3. 

G to X is 8 inches, first shoulder height front. Square point X over I34 inches to 17. X to 1 
is 2 inches. Square over 1 to 27. 

Draft neck curve, 17 to 27. 

Draw front shoulder from 17 to 4. same length as back shoulder, O — S. Z to 2 is 6 inches, yi of 
chest measure. 

Draft arniscye from S — 2 to 4. In drafting a^mscye be careful not to go inside of line I — R, 
also not below bust line. It is very important to follow the draft of armscye very care- 
fully, as nothing can l)e added to an arniscye that is too large, but w hen an armscye is too 
small it can be made larger. This completes the box. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 239 



17 X 




Diagram 120 



240 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

EIGHT-YEAR-OLD REEFER. 

Diagram 121 



MEASURES. 

Bust 2834 inches Shoulder Height Front 8 — 6 inches 

Waist 261^ inches Shoulder Height Back 6>4 — 4^^ inches 

Hip 32 inches Neck Height and to Waist ...Sj^ — 1L>4 inches 

Across Chest 12 inches Across Back 11 inches 

Neck 13 inches Shoulder 4^ inches 

Sleeve 13J4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

For box follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. 

At waist line, E to J is 'i inch; J to K is 3 inches; K to L is y^ inch; L to 4 is 4 inches; 4 to 
5 is -H inch. 

Take center of L — K, square down, where line crosses on first hip measure y4 inch to 10, 'i inch 
to 15. 

Take center of 5 — 6, square up to 28 and down. Where line crosses on first hip measure 34 'ncli 
to 12, % inch to 11. 

On hip, from F to V is 34 inch. 

At back neck, A to W is yi inch. Draw back line from W — A — J— V tfj 16. From J to T, T 
to U and 16 to B is 134 inches for lap. Draw line from U to B as shown. 

From S at shoulder to 29 is 3 inches. 

Shape two back gores as shown. 

At front, on hip, 18 to 19 is 134 inches. Draw front line from Q — 19 to 17. 

To make garment double breasted, from front line measure 23^ inches to 26 — 20, the same dis- 
tance back for button stand. 

For lapel and collar, measure from deepest point of neck, 32 to 23, 1 inch. Draw straight line 
from bottom of lapel at 26 through 23 to 24. 33 to 21 is 2^4 inches, 34 inch more than 
back measure, W — O. 

Square on line Z'l — ^26, 1 inch to 25, for standing band of collar, and from 24 to 34 is 234 inches, 
or any desired width. 34 to 22 is 34 inch allowed for spring. 

Shape back of collar from 25 — 2-1 — 21 — 22. Shape collar and lapel as shown. 

To trace colar, place separate paper under the collar and trace out the shape of collar. 

To trace lapel, break on line 26 — 24, turn paper under and trace out the shape of lapel, which 
will be reserved on opposite side. 

This completes the diagram for reefer. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR W OMEN. 
26 



241 




Diagram 121 



242 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



SEMI-FITTING COAT. EIGHT YEARS. 

Diagram 122' 

MEASURES. 

Bust 285^ inches Shoulder Height Front-. 8 — 6 inches 

Waist 263^2 inches Shoulder Height Back G'/z — 4^2 inches 

Hip 32 inches Neck Height and to Waist ....5}4 — 11 -H inches 

Across Chest - 12 inches Across Back 11 inches 

Neck 13 inches Shoulder 4J4 inches 

Sleeve 13^ inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. 

E to J is ^ inch ; J to 6 is 5% inches : 6 to 7 ib 44 inch ; I to T is 1 inch ; B to V is '4 inch. Take 
center of 6—7, square down where line crosses on first hip. measure ^ inch to 13, 14 inch 
to 14. On second hip, where line crosses, measure ^ inch to 8 and }i inch to 9. 

Shape back gore as shown. 

At front hip line, from 18 to 19 is 1'^ inches. Draw front line from 27 — O — 19 to 11. 

To make garment double breasted, measure from front line 27 — 11, Zyi inches to 26 — 12, same 
distance back for button stand. From 27 to 28 is 3^2 inch taken out. 

To draft lay down collar, measure from deepest point of neck, 16 to 23, 1 inch. 

Draw line from 28 through 23 to 24. 27 to 22- is 2}^ inches, ]'4 more than back neck measure, 
O— K. 

Square over on line 28 — 24, 1 inch to 25, for stand band of collar, over to 20, 3 inches, or any 
desired width. 20 to 21 is J^ inch allowed for spring at Ijack. 

Shape collar as shown. ^ 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 243 




Diagram 122 



244 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOM3N. 



SEMI-FITTING COAT, FRENCH SEAMS, EIGHT YEARS 

Diagram 12J 

MEASURES. 

Bust 283^ inches ■ Shoulder Height Front-. 8 — 6 inches 

Waist 26J4 inches Shoulder Height Back 6>4 — 4>4 inches 

Hip - 32 inches Neck Height to Waist 5>^— 11% inches 

Across Chest ...12 inches Across Back 11 inches 

Neck 13 inches Shoulder 4% inches 

Sleeve 13 j4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. 

At waist line, E to M is 1/2 inch; M to 35 is 3>4 inches; 35 to 34 is >2 inch; 34 to 9 is 4 inches; 

9 to 8 is >4 inch. 

At shoulder, from O to T is 23/^ inches ; T to S is 2 inches. 

At bust line, I to U is Iji inches. Take center of 34 — 35, square down, where line crosses on 
hip measure ^4 inch to 12 and >4 inch to 37. 

Take center of 8 — 9, square up to 29 and down, where line crosses on hip measure '/i inch to 

10 and yi inch to 11. 

Raise back neck from A to K 34 inch. Draw back K — A — M to 38. Shape back and gores as 
shown. 

At front, on hip, from 18 to 19 is D/o inches. 

Draw line 27— Q— 19— 13. 

At bust line, from O to L is 3'/: inches. Square L down. 
31 to 33 is yi inch taken out. 

At shoulder, 32 to 28 is 2% inches, 28 to 30 is -u inch taken out. This Ji inch add on point 
22 — 4. Reshape armscye from 29 to 4. 

To make garment double breasted, collar and lapel, follow same instructions as given in three 
gore coat. 

After pattern has been cut out lay pattern together at points 28 — 30 — L. Square shoulder over 
to 4. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN 



245 




Diagram 123 



24b 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



EIGHT YEAR BOX COAT. 

Diagram 124 

MEASURES. 

Bust ISyi inches Shoulder Height Front 8 — 6 inches 

Waist 26J/2 inches Shoulder Height Back 6>2 — -^'/i inches 

Hip 32 inches Neck Height and to Waist ...5^ — 11^ inches 

Across Chest 12 inches Across Back 11 inches 

Neck 13 inches Sliuuldcr 4->4 inches 

.Sleeve 13^ inches 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in First and Second Lessons. 

Allow on bust 2 inches more for seams than the natural bust measure. 

E to M is 1/2 inch. 

Draw line from K — M to 10 full length. I to 2') is 1 >2 inches. Square down 2'', which gives 
point 7 on waist line. From 7 to 9 is 1 inch. 7 to 8 is 1 inch. 

Draw straight line from 29 through 8 to 12 over to 10. This completes back. 

For front, draw line from 29 — 9 — 11. From 18 tu 19 is \'/2 inches. 

Draw front line from O — 19 to 13. 

To make garment double breasted, collar and lapel, follow same instructions as given in diagram 
121, pageXHO. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



247 




Diagram 124 



248 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

PLAIN COAT SLEEVE. 
SLEEVE CORRESPONDING TO EIGHT YEAR OLD. 

Diagram 125 

MEASURES. 

Half of Back 5'/2 inches To Elbow 15'j inches 

Full Length 22 >4 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line A — B. 

A to M is 3/2 of back measure, 5>4 inches. 

A to L is ISyi inches to the elbow, and A to B is ZZjA inches, full length sleeve. 

I is 3/2 the distance between M and D. 

E to F is 3^ of bust measure. F to D is 1 inch less. 

Square over on points AJ — I — D — L on line A — ^B. 

M to S is Vi of bust measure plus 2 inches, allowance for seams. 

Square point S down to H, over to B. 

Point N is 3^ the distance of S and iVI. 

N to O is 13/^ inches. 

N to X is 144 inches. 

Q to P is y^ inch. 

T to R is 1 inch. 

R to U is Ys of bust, 3^ inches. 

K is 3^ the distance between H and B. 

Square down point K. 1 inch to J. 

L to C is 1 inch. 

Draw line from H to E 53/2 inches for top sleeve, and H to A' is ^yi inches for undersleeve. 

Shape the top sleeve from H through R to P through G — C) to I through C to E. 

Shape undersleeve from H through R to Q to X to U to \'. This completes the sleeve. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



f 



249 




250 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



BISHOP SLEEVE WITHOUT SEAMS. 
SLEEVE CORRESPONDING TO EIGHT YEAR OLD. 



Diagram 126 



MEASURES. 



Bust ZSyi inches Shoulder Height Front 8 — 6 inches 

Waist 26>4 inches Shoulder Height Back 6>i — 4>4 inches 

Hip 52 inches Neck Height and to Waist.. ..51/2 — II V4 inches 

.Across Chest 12 inches .Across Back , 11 inches 

Neck 13 inches Shoulder _ 4^ inches 

Sleeve 13 >/^ inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 
Draw line A — B. 

.\ to L is '/s of bust, which is Syi inches; L to D is 34 of bust, 7 inches; O to B is 7 inches, J4 
of bust. A to E is ^ of bust measure less 2 inches. Square over points L — O and B. 
Square down points E to K. This completes the bo.x of the sleeve. 

S is '/> the distance between A and E ; S to N is 1 inch; H to F is 1 inch; and L to C is 1 inch; 
G to P is >< inch ; O to D is >^ inch ; T is !> the distance between K and B ; T to M is 
2y2 inches. 

Shape sleeve from B— O— C— N through H to F— P— K and M to R. This completes sleeve. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 251 




252 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

EIGHT- YEAR-OLD 
KIMONO SLEEVE AND COAT. 

DiAGKAM 127 



MEASURES. 

Bust 283^ inches Shoulder Height Front 8 — 6 inches 

Waist 26>2 inches Shoulder Height Back 6J/2 — 4>'2 inches 

Hip 32 inches Meek Height and to Waist --.5^ — 11^ inches 

Across Chest 12 inches Across Back 11 niches 

Neck 13 inches Shoulder 4^4 inches 

Sleeve 13^ inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in diagram 124, page 24^. For collar and double breasted 
coat, follow same instruction as given in diagram 129, page 25'/. 

h'rom 29 to 25 is 1 inch. Square over 2o, ly^ inches to 24 and 36. Square up 25, 13 inches, 
length of sleeve, to 28. 28 to 30 and 33 is 1 inch. Draw line connecting 36 to 30 and 24 
to 33. Connect 36 with 7 and 24 with 7 for the under-gore of body. 

l-rom 25 to 17 is 2}i inches. 

Draw line from 2^ — 17 to 21 for front sleeve. Square over on this line to 22. 

.\llow from 21 to 20, 1 inch. Draw line from 20—17—24. 

From 20 to 22 is 4^ inches. 

DinW line from 24 through I to 23, Syi niches. 

Draw line from 22 — 23 — 4 to 32. This completes the forepart. 

For back part, draw line from 36 through 17 to 16. .Square over 16 to 14; 16 to 15 is 1 inch taken 
oiif ; 15 to 14 is 4>4 inches. 

Draw line from 36 — H to 31, 5 inches. Shape as shown from 15 — 17 to 36 — 14 — 31 — S. 

S is ^ inch raise from R up to O. This completes the back part of sleeve. 

Shape the underarm front part of coat from 1 1 — 9 to 24. 7 to 9 is 1 inch. 

Shape the back part of the underarm of coat from 12 — 8 to 36. 7 to 8 is 1 inch. 

Trace out the back part of coat and sleeve from 12 — 10 — K — O — S — 31 — 14 — 15 — 17 — 36 — S 
to 12. 

The front part of coat remains on the paper as shown in the dotted line. 

Trace the undersleeve and gore of body from 7 — 36 — 30 — 33 — 24 to 7, as shown on the side of 
diagram. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



253 



33 28 30 




Diagram 127 



254 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



EIGHT YEARS 
HOW TO MAKE A DEEP ARMHOLE FROM A BLOCK PATTERN 

Diagram 128 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Lay pattern together at underarm as (ioilcd line sliows. 

To place the new seams under the arm. measure from neck, 8 to 7, Sy.i inches, square over 7 
to 2, 83/ inches, and from 6 to 4, W'/, inches. Draw straight line from 2 to 4. 2 to 3 
is 3 inches. Reshape armscye. 

To make garment double breasted measure out from front line 4 inches to 16, same distance 
back for buttons. 

To make collar, lay front and back shoulders together on point 9 — 1. Collar is cut without stand 
band. 

Draw straight line from 16 to 9. 

At back from 15 to 11 is 5 inches. 11 to 10 i.s y2 inch for spring. Shape collar from 16 — 1 — 
10 for shawl collar. 

For sailor collar square over on back 12 — I?, 6 inches to 13. Shape as shown. 

For shovel collar 15 to 14 is 93/2 inches. Shape from 1 to 14. This completes the coal. 



DRAFT SLEEVE. 

Diagram i29 , 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line .\ — !>. A to 9 is i/^ of bust measure, Syi inches. 9 to B is 14 inches, fifll lengtn of 
sleeve. 9 to 6 is 2^4 inches, % Jess for each inch at underarm of coat, 3 to 2. Square 
all given points. 

8 to C is 13 inches, 1 inch less than yi of bust measure. 6 to 7, 5 to 4 is lj4 iuclie.;. 
Draw line from A to 3 and C to 3. A to 1 1 and C to 10 is ijA inches. 1 is the center of A — C. 
Shape sleeve as shown. 

4 — 7 is the underarm sleeve, joint to Doint 3 at underarm coat. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



255 




s 
< 

PC 

o 

< 



00 
CM 



s 

< 
Q 



256 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 

EIGHT-YEAR-OLD 
RAGLAN COAT WITHOUT SEAMS. 

Diagram 130 

MEASURES. 

Bust 28y2 inches Shoulder Height Back 6 — 8 inches 

Waist 26y2 inches Shoulder Height Back 6J/2 — 4^ inches 

Hip 32 inches Neck Height of Waist Syi — ll}i inches 

Across Chest 12 inches Across Back 11 inches 

Xeck 13 inches Shoulder 4j4 inches 

Sleeve 13^^ inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in diagram 124, page 242. This coat is cut without seams. 
For double breasted and lay down collor, follow the same instructions as given in diagram 
122, page 238. 

Draw straight line from 12 to 32. 13 is thee center of 12 — 32. Square over 13 to 11, '4 inch. 
Reshape shoulder from 12 — 11 — 32. 

At back, draw line from 29 to O. U is the center of O — 29. -Square U over to T -54 inch. 

Reshape shoulder from 28 — 29 — T — O. 

EIGHT-YEAR-OLD 
RAGLAN SLEEVE CUT WITHOUT SEAMS. 

Diagram 131 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow same instructions as given in diagram 125, page 248. At undersleeve measure the dis- 
tance from Q to X. Place Q on 12 and X on 29. Ease between Q — X _^2 inch. .-\t back, 
measure the distance from 29 to O, which is 7 inches. Place the 7 inches on point I to 7. 
Square over 7 to 6, 2 inches. Draw line up from I to 6. 4 is the center of 6 — I. Square 
4 to 5, "/^ inch. 

Shape from I — 5 to 6. 

.\t front, measure the distance from 12 to 32, 8 '4 inches. Place the 834 inches on point P, 
measure up to 9, 834 inches. Square over point 9 to 8, 2 inches. 

Draw straight line from P to 8. 3 is the center of 8 — P. Square over 3 — 2, j4 inch. 

Shape sleeve from P — 2 — 8. This sleeve is cut through at shoulder. 

Square point N up to 10, 3 inches. N to 11 is '4 inch. N to 1 is ■)4 inch. 

At bottom, H to W is 2^ inches. Draw line from W — 11 — 10 — 8 — 6 — 10—1 to W. This com- 
pletes sleeve. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 257 




Diagram 130 



Diagram 13I 



258 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



ONE PIECE KIMONO SLEEVE AND COAT WORKED FROM A 

BLOCK PATTERN. 

Diagram I32 
MEASURES. 



INSTRUCTIONS. 

Lay front and back shoulders together as dotted line shows. 

17 to 9 is .J4 inch. 16 to 10 is 1 inch. Draw line from 9 — 10 to 12. From 9 to 11 is 6*4 inches. 
Square 11 over to 6 — 7, 5 inches. 12 to 15 and 12 to 13 is 5j/ inches. 12 to 14 is 1 inch. 

Draw line from 6 — 15 — 7 to 13. Shape bottom from 13 — 1-1 — 15. The distance from 6 to 3 
and 2 to 7 is 3 inches, which is lost at the underarm of waist. Tliis distance which is lobl 
we gain by placing an under gore in the body and sleeve. 

Draw line from 7 to 8. 6 to 5, 6 inches. 

Take the center of 22 — 23, which is 19. Square this point up to 18, 6 inches, same distance from 
7 to 8 and 6 to 5. Square down 19 to 20, ISyi inches, the same distance from 7 to 13 
and 6 to 15, length of sleeve. 20 to 24 and 21 is 1 inch, 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



259 




Diagram 132 



260 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOM.^N 



HOOD NO. 1, EIGHT- YEAR-OLD. 

DiAGRA 1 133 

MEASURES. 
Bust 28 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw line E and B. 

E to D and E to F and F to B is always ^ of bust measure, 7 inches. Square points just given, 
which constitute box. 

Place jacket back and front together as dotted line shows, and draft neck curve E to C; C to A 
is front of jacket or cape. Now draft curve B through G to A, as shown; J4 inch all 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



261 






Diagram 133 



262 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOOD NO. 2. EIGHT-YEAR-OLD. 

Diagram 134 

MEASURES. 
Bust 28 inches 

Top of this hood is same as No. 1, with e.'vce[)rion of F to B being % of bust, Syi inches. 

From F to P is 4 inches, and from B to I is Sy^ inches ; increase or decrease these distances for 
respective sizes ; I to H is 1 inch. Now connect these points with straight Hne, as shown. 

Now draft curve from H through G to A. 



HOOD NO. 3, EIGHT- YEAR-OLD. 

Diagram i35 

MEASURES. 

Dust 28 inches 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Follow instructions as No. 2, with exception of following: 

B to I is Syl inches, and I to H is 2 inches; J to K is -x^ incli ; draft line B to H to line K — G — A, 
as shown. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



263 




Diagram 134 
No. 2 



Diagram I35 
No. 3 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



265 




CHILDRENS COLLARS AND CUFFS 



-^^ THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



ONE PIECE CIRCULAR CAPE. 

Diagram 136 

INSTRUCTIONS. 
Place front and back shoulder together, G F. 
At back from H to B is 1 inch. 
Draw new line from A to B. 
For sweep at bottom C to B, pivet on point E. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 267 




Diagram 136 



268 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



CIRCULAR CAPE WITH ONE DART. 

Diagram 137 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

Draw an angle from .\ to K and .\ to C. Take front and back of eoat pattern, lay front on 
line A to (.' and back on line A to K allowni},' 1 inch from j to (1. 

.At back shoulder from I to H allow '4 inch for neck. 

Take length of shoulder from V to C, and make (i to H the same length. K to I! is I inch for 
.spring. 

For sweep at bottom from B to C pivot on point A. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 269 




Diagram 137 



270 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOW TO MAKE THE INSIDE FRONTS OF A SEMI-FITTING COAT. 

Diagram 138 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

At the present time the fronts ait worked without canvas or hairclotii, to avoid the stiffness of 
the coat. Instead use camhric, as shown on the illustration. Cut the cambric the same 
shape as the material. 

Ai the front, from 17 — 12 to 13 must he cut on the straight of material, the same from 5 to lo. 

Stvv the outside and cambric separatel) . then pi ess the both seams open, and baste the seam of 
tiie coat with the seam of the cambric together, with one or more bastings as shown. 
Also baste the cambric around the shoulder, armhole, under the arm and down the front. 

To work the lapel, make short .stitches through the inside of the cambric, catching the cloth with- 
out showing the stitches through on the right side. Then tape the break line, 11 — 12, being 
very careful not to stretch the cloth, also from where the collar joins around the shape 
of iapel ease in the cloth from 17 to 12 and from 12 down to bottom, lie careful not to 
stretch or ease in the cloth. 

F'.etween 9 — 10 cut away 3 inches of the tape, which is IJ/j inches above and below the waist 
length. We cut away the 3 inches so as to give the garment more freedom at the waist 
line in front. 

HOW TO PRESS IN THE SIDE FRONT OF COAT. 

At the underarm of coat from 3 — 4 fold the material over to 5 — 6, which will give us the crease 
line, 1 — 2. Press on this line as much as possible, so that the underarm, 3 — 4. becomes 
perfectly straight with the front seam, 5 — 6. 

HOW TO MAKE COLLAR. 

Cut the collar bias, also short stitch the lapel and stretch well l)etween 19 — 18, so collar will lay 
perfectly flat when turned down. When sewing the collar in the neck, ease J4 iT-"h be- 
tween 20 — 21. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



271 








l.> 




Diagram 138 



272 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



HOW TO MAKE THE FRONTS OF A TIGHT-FITTING JACKET. 

Diagram 139 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

A garnu-iu made according to these instructions will surel\- prove to he satisfactory in every 
respect. As shown in cut, the front has French seams. First sponge the canvas, tncn 
dry and press it thoroughly, .\fter that cut out according to pattern. 

.\t point 1 of canvas take out a \ of -ys, inch, also at the points 13 and 8. Having joined the 
edges, cover them with a piece of tape and press thoroughly so as to make seams lay Hat. 

Now cut a piece of haircloth around the armhi.le and bust, as shown in cut. 

Take out at points 9 and 10 J/j inch each to obtain the required fullness. This ' _. inch is cor- 
rect for 36 inch bust measure; if the bust is larger we have to take out more; if smaller. 
less than J/ inch. 

Now baste haircloth on the can\ass, sew Ui\ye around the edges, to tiatteii and to prevent the 
haircloth from protruding. 

No. 14 represents an extra piece of canvas, which is sewed as far down as point of dart to ob- 
tain more stiffness over the bust. At the waist line cut canvas as shown in the diagram. 

Make a small dart from -1 — 5, sewing tape on top of it as shown before. 

On the outside, at the place where zigzag line is drawn, hold in, while pressing, to get the neces- 
sary fullness at the waist ( as shown by shadows at 6 and 7 in the diagram. I 

Now we are ready to place the canvas with the haircloth on the left side of the goods and to sew 
both together with small bastings. 

In making the lapel use short stitches on the canvas, catching the cloth without showing on the 
right side, and giving the lapel the necessary rolling shape. Now sew tape from point 
11 to 12, and from 13 to 12 to 2 and from 3 to 15, holding in top goods and canvas while 
sewing on. 

Between 2 and 3 at the waist I'lie the goods have to be stretched. 

When everything is joined press with a verv hot iron. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



273 




DlAGRj\Ml39 



Alterations 



276 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DIAGRAM A. 

Hoiv to Alter: Reduce the back part from A to B, say, >4 inch, as shown in dotted line. Then 
move B at the back part up to A, the forepart. Allow at the bottom of the back part Yi 
inch from D to C. 

FIGURE A. 

Fault: The back part wrinkles at the side. 

Cause : The back part is too short for the forepart. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



277 




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1 


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j 


a. 


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(J 



278 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DIAGRAM B. 

How to Alter: Reduce the forepart froiii C to D, say, >^ inch. 
From A down to dotted line and over to t> is ^ inch. 
E to F is ^ inch taken off. Shape from F to G as dotted line shows. 

Square over shoulder from B through b. which locates E, and over to the original shoulder 
point. 



FIGURE B. 



Fault : Coat springs open at bottom, not enough lap. 
Cause : Front shoulder point is too long. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



279 




03 

a 




< 

o 

< 



280 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DIAGRAM C. 

How to Alter: Reduce the back part from A ',o B and C to D, say. '_> inch, as shown in dotted 

line. Reshape from B — D — E to F. 
D to F is the same lensjtli as C to E. 



FIGURE C. 

Fault : Coat wrinkles at the back of neck. 

Cause : There is too much back lensrth at the back of neck. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



281 




U 
g 




U 



< 

O 

< 



282 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



dl\(;ram d. 2 

1 1 0:1.' to .liter: Reduce the sleeve from A lo B and C to D, say, yi inch or more, as showr in 
dotted line. 

Reduce the undersleeve from G to H and E lo F the same amount, and reshape. 

Lengthen the top sleeve at Isottom >4 inch from K to L and I to G, and ^4 inch at the under- 
sleeve from K to L and I to G. 

FIGURE D. 2 

fault: The sleeve falls in folds from the sleeve head down. 
Cause : The sleeve head is too short. 



DIAGRAM D— 1. 

How to Alter: Reduce the sleeve head from 1 lo 2, say, 3^2 inch, as dotted line shows. 
Reduce the undersleeve from 3 to 4, the same yi inch, as dotted line shows. 

FIGURE D— 1. 

fault : This sleeve wrinkles at the top of the undersleeve upward. 
Cause: It has too much sleeve head. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



283 




3 







!X0 

« — 



284 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DIAGRAM E. 

Hoiv to Alter: Take the fullness out at the side front only, in this case 1 inch more or less 
from C to B, slightly shaped up to A. 



FIGURE E. 

Fault : When a coat is too full in tiie front at hottoni. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



285 




UJ 

Oi 

O 



< 



286 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DIAGRAM F. 

How to Alter: Rip the seam at top of the side front gore and take ofT -Kt inch, in this case 

from A to P>. Shape down to bust iii.e. 
The ditsance we take off from A to B add on the shoulder from C to D, as dotted line show:,. 

FIGURE F. 
Fault: Front armliolc loo full. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



287 




3 




B 
a 

u 

be 



288 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DIAGRAM G. 

Hoiv to Alter: Rip the seam at top of the side back gore and take off 34 mc\\ in this case. 
From A — B shape down below the Ijust line to I. The distance we take oft' from A to K add 
on the shoulder from C to D, as dotted line shows. 



FIGURE G. 
Fault: l^.ack armliole too full. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



^89 




O 



3 

IE 




O 



290 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOM.i:N, 



DIAGRAM H. 

Ho-w to Alter: Rip coat open at the bottom and allow at the side back gore from V to C 1 inch 
more or less, slightly shaped to A, as dotted line shows. 

FIGURE H. 

I'aitlt : When a coat wrinkles across the back at waist line. 
Cause: The coat is too tight over the hip at back. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN 



291 




3 







292 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



DIAGRAM J. 

Hoiv to Alter: All(3\v at the back from 1! to A and D to C -M incli. 
Reshape shoulder from C to F, as dotted hne shows. 



FIGURE J. 

I'tiiill: When a coat falls in folds down center hack. 
Cause: The coat is cut out too deeji at tiie hack fjf nccl 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



293 








b/) 



294 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 



INDEX 

Page 

IN IRODUCTIOK 5 

PKEFACE. TO SECOND EDITION 6 

1 Rol'oRTlONAL MEASUREMENTS y 

I'KOPOKTIONAL WIDTHS 10 

I'Kl li'OKTK )NAL LENGTHS 11 

DlKEtTIOXS FOR TAKING MEASURES 12 

JACKET LESSON I 14 

JACKET LESSON 2 16 

TIGHT BACK, L(JOSE FRONT 18 

TIGHT HACK. LOOSE FRONT, COMPLETE 20 

TIGHT FITTING BACK, WITH TWO DARTS 22 

TIGHT FITTING BACK, LOOSE FRONTS, FRENCH SEAMS 24 

TIGHT FITTED lACKET FRENCH SEAMS 26 

REGULAR COAT SLEEVE 28 

HOW TO MAKE SLEEVE WIDER AT TOP 30 

HOW TO MAKE RECiULAR SLEEVE SHORTER OR LONGER 32 

BISHOP SLEEVE 34 

SEMI-FITTINC; WITH UNDER GORE 36 

SEMI-FITTING COAT WITH SEAMS AT SIDES AND SAILOR COLLAR 38 

L( JOSE SEM I-FITT I NG COAT 40 

SEMI-FITTING COAT WITH SHAWL COLLAR 42 

SEVEN-EIGHTHS FITTING COAT FOR CORPULENT FIGURE 44 

HI PLESS COAT 46 

LOOSE STRAIGHT LINE COAT 48 

M< )NTE CARLO C( )AT 30 

TWO PIECE COAT 52 

LOOSE BOX COAT 54 

ULSTER WITH SEPARATE SKIRT 56 

LOOSE C( ) AT, RA( ; LAN SLEEVE 58 

HOW TO PLACE DARTS IN FRONT OF RAGLAN 60 

HOW TO MAKE A RAGLAN FROM A P.LOCK PATTERN, LOOSE COAT 62 

HOW TO MAKE A COAT WITH A DEEP ARMHOLE FROM BLOCK PATTERN 64 

FOR DEEP ARMHOLE " 66 

COLLARLESS SEMI-FITTING KIMONO COAT 68 

SHAWL COLLAR WITH SEAM ON SHOULDER SHOWN ON BLOCK PATTERN 70 

SET ON COLLAR AND LAPEL SIIiiWN ON BLoiK PATTERN 12 

TWO-PIECE KIMONO COAT WORKED FROM BLOCK PATTERN 74 

LOOSE FRONT JACKET. THREE-EIGHTHS SEAMS ALLOWED 76 

NINETEEN GORE CORSET JACKET 78 

E T ( J N J A C K T 80 

RUSSIAN BLOUSE 82 

TIGHT FITTING lACKET WITH SEPARATE SKIRT 84 

LOOSE FRONT lACKET WITH TIGHT FITTING VEST 86 

LOOSE BACK TIGHT FRONT VEST 88 

TIGHT FITTING VEST 90 

EMPIRE JACKET 92 

NORFOLIv JACKET 94 

NORFOLK TACKET 96 

TO DRAFT SLEEVE FOR DROP SHOULDER 98 

SFMI-FITTING COAT WITH VEST AND DROP SHOULDER 100 

THREE-PIECE STORM COLLAR 102 

CHILD'S TURNED DOWN COLLAR 104 

STANDING COLLAR 106 

TURNED DOWN COLLAR 106 

HOW DOLMAN MEASUREMENTS ARE TAKEN 10S 

OPERA CLOAK lin 

ULSTER WITH I50LMAN SLEEVE 112 

FICHU NO. 3 :... 114 

FICHU NO. 4 116 

DOLMAN NO. 5 .-. 118 

DOLMAN NO. 6 120 

DOLMAN NO. 7 122 

DOLMAN NO. 8 '. 1 24 

I APE WITH ONE DART 126 

CAPE WITH TWO DARTS 128 

Co,.\CHMAN'S FUR C.M'E 130 

HOW TO GRADE MflNTE CARLO OR LOOSE BOX COAT 132 

HOW TO GRADE MONTE CARLO OR LOOSE BOX COAT (Continued) 1.^4 

ULSTER NO. 1 136 

ULSTER NO. 2 .*. 138 

PRINCESS DRESS 140 

HOOD NO. 1 142 

HOOD NO. 2 144 

HOOD NO. 3 144 

KNEE LEGGINS 146 

SHOE LEGGINS 1 46 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER FOR WOMEN. 295 



ENDEX 

Pt«. 

WAISTS. FIRST LESSON \i1 

WAISTS. SECOND LESSON \'J, 

IIC.HT iriTED LINING, FRENCH SEAMS \i* 

TIGHT UNINi; SHIRT WAIST WITH ONE GORE Jj* 

TIGHT FITTING TWO i'lECE LINING '5* 

li LOUSE SHIRT WAIST 160 

UIAGKA.M 8 J }6f 

TURN OVER COLLAR }6j 

IIISHOP SLEEVE J6j 

TIGHT LINING SLEEVE 166 

TIGHT FITTING PRINCESS, FOUR PIECES 168 

BLOUSE WAIST, DROP SHOULDER JiS 

BLOUSE WAIST WITH DEEP ARMHOLE ]/2 

HOW TO .MAKE KIMONO SLEEVE FROM BLOCK PATTERN \l* 

WAIST WITH KIMONO SLEEVE 1J6 

MANNISH SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE 178 

HOW TO MAKE A SHAWL COLLAR AND LAPEL ISO 

HOW TO MAKE A NOTCH COLLAR 182 

HOW TO MAKE A SAILOR COLLAR FROM BLOCK PATTERN 184 

HIPLESS OR HOBBLE SKIRT IN ONE PIECE 188 

EMPIRE SKIRT J'" 

lliiBliLE SKIRT WITH ONE PLEAT ON SIDE ]92 

lIoliBLE SKIRT J'j 

PA.XTALOON SKIRT 196 

L I RC U L A R SKIRT 198 

THREE GORE SKIRT 200 

FIVE GORE FLOUNCE SKIRT 202 

F1\E GORE SKIRT 20j 

SEVEN GORE SKIRT 206 

NINE GORE SKI RT 208 

ELEVEN GORE SKIRT FOR A FULL CORPULENT FIGURE 210 

ELEVEN (;oRE FLARE SKIRT 212 

THIRTEEN Go RE PLEATED SKIRT 214 

FIFTEEN t;oRE SKIRT 216 

SAFETY RIDING SKIRT 220 

HACK PART OF SKIRT •;• 222 

ILLUSTRATIONS SHOWING DIFFERENT POSITIONS OF SAFETY RIDING HABITS 224 

RIDING HABIT, SIDE SADDLE, FRONT PART 226 

RIDING HABIT, SIDE SADDLE. BACK PART 228 

DIVIDED RIDING HABIT SKIRT 230 

RIDING BREECHES 232 

PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS, CHILDREN'S 234 

PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS, MISSES & JUNIORS' 235 

FI RST LESSf ) N 236 

SECOND LESSON 238 

EIGHT YEAR OLD REEFER 240 

SEMI-FITTlisG COAT, EIGHT YEARS 242 

SEMI-FITTING FRENCH SEAMS. EIGHT YEARS 244 

EIGHT YEAR OLD BOX COAT 246 

PLAIN COAT SLEEVE 248 

BISHOP SLEEVE WITHOUT SEAMS 250 

EIGHT YEAR r)LD KIMONO SLEEVE .\ND COAT 2.52 

HOW TO MAKE A DEEP ARMHOLE FROM A BLOCK PATTERN 2.i4 



DRAFT A SLEEVE 



254 



EIGHT YEAR OLD RAGLAN COAT WITHOUT SEAMS if* 

EIGHT YEAR OLD RAGLAN SLEEVE CUT WITHOI'T SEAMS 256 

ONE PIECE KIMONO SLEEVE AND COAT WORKED FROM BLOCK PATTERN 258 

HOOD NO. 1, EIGHT YEARS 260 

HOOD NO. 2. EIGHT YEARS 262 

HOOD NO. f. EIGHT YEARS 262 

ILLUSTRATIONS SHOWING CHILDREN'S COLLARS AND CUFFS 264 

ONE PIECE CIRCULAR C.\PE 266 

CIRCULAR CAPE WITH ONE DART 268 

HOW TO MAKE THE INSIDE FRONTS OF A SEMI-FITTING COAT 270 

HOW TO MAKE THE FRONTS OF A TKIHT FITTING JACKET 272 

H( )W T( ) MAKE ALTERATIONS 274 

FIC.URE A. DIAGRAM A 276 



FIGURE B. DIAGRAM B. 



278 



FIGURE C, DIAGRAM C 280 

FIGURE DI. DIAGRAM Dl 282 



FIGURE D-2. DIAGR.NM D-2. 



282 



FIGITRE.E. DIAGRAM E '. 284 

FIGURE F, DIAGRAM F 286 

FIGURE G, DIAGRAM G 288 

FIGURE H, DIAGRAM H 2^0 

FIGURE J, DIAGRAM I 292 



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